May 12-14, 2025

Marseille is reported to be the oldest city in southern France with the geography of the area lending itself to a sheltered harbor. There is evidence of a Greek settlement from 600 BC due to the harbor and the location of a nearby hill.

Our walking tour began before 9am with our energetic tour guide, Ben, leading the way. We walked from the hotel to an area known as Le Panier, a district known as the birthplace of Marseille. The Medieval streets and 18th century buildings underwent renovation and urban development and is now the center of creativity: murals on nearly every wall, artists’ studios and unique shops.

We briefly stopped in front of La Vieille Charité in the heart of Le Panier. It was an almshouse but is now a museum, on that we would explore on our own over the next 2 days. 

Onward to a square where we found the Pétanque club, currently closed at this hour, then to the Cathedral of Saint Mary major, an enormous church built during the years 1852-1893, next to the smaller 12th Century church. The site itself had religious significance since the 5th century.

We walked further into the New Port where most of the cruise ships are docked. The purpose of our walk here was to enter the Cosquer cave, or rather an exact replica of the cave that was discovered in 1985 by Henri Cosquer. He discovered a cave with Paleolithic paintings, submerged after the retreating glaciers of the Ice Age 9,000 years ago. He did not report his findings until 1991 after a diver was killed attempting to access the cave. In order to preserve the paintings, an exact replica was built in order to allow the public to see the incredible drawings and learn more about the ancient cultures known as Gravettian (34,000 to 22,000 BC) and Epigravettian (22,000 to 10,000 BC) living in what is now Provence. This was an amazing 45 minute ride through time when people drew animals and activities with red ochre and charcoal. Unfortunately, no photos were allowed in the “cave”. We explored the attached museum, purchasing a book to remind us of this experience.

Our walking tour ended at the Cosquer experience where we walked back to the street and onto a bus for a tour ending at the Basilica of Our Lady of the Garde. Unfortunately, our group was unable to tour the inside of the Basilica but fortunately for us, we had done this during our stay in 2018. We appreciated the wonderful panoramic views on a brilliant, sunny day before being driven back to the hotel to get ready for our Tauck Tour farewell dinner.

The dinner was held at Casa de Lauze, a private home turned into an event center. A beautiful space, uniquely decorated with Henri de Lauze’s souvenirs from his time as a diver. He spent 3 years working with Jacques Cousteau in underwater exploration, from 1952 to 1955.  His equipment is scattered throughout the grounds and the interior of this submarine-designed space.

Although the Tauck Tour dinner was a fond farewell to our fellow passengers and guides, the meal was a disaster! The pork dish was undercooked, the meat practically raw. Most diners were sending their plates back barely touched. (When arriving back in Wilmington, we received a check for $300 from Tauck, meant to redeem the cost of the dinner—thanks!). Despite this unfortunate turn of events, we experienced a stunning sunset before heading back to the hotel to wish our fellow passengers a proper farewell before retiring.

May 13, 2025

We enjoyed a leisurely breakfast at the hotel before setting out to explore sites that we briefly stopped by during the Tauck tour. Our first stop was the Accoules church, originally built in the 11th century and the most significant parish building in Marseille dating from the Middle Ages.

The body of church was destroyed during the French Revolution but the Sauveterre Tower survived. Accoules was rebuilt during the 18th century. The interior was not remarkable but the exterior still held remanents of Medieval times. 

Walking up the street steps from the church we arrived in the Le Panier with its colorful murals and headed to La Vieille Charité, the Old Almshouse. It had an interesting history as this is where the poor and beggars were rounded up and housed, clearing the streets of “undesirables”.  It later became a workhouse then a barracks for displaced WWII survivors. It is now a home to the alleged archeology museum. Admission was free as are most museums in Marseille.

We walked around the courtyard and climbed steps to the 2nd level. Not finding much of interest as there seem to be only municipal offices and a few spaces for exhibits, (we could find no museum) we went back into the courtyard and to the domed chapel. The artist, Laurie Prouvost, has an enormous installation in the center, hanging from the dome, called “Mother We Sea”, a tribute to the Mediterranean as a maternal entity.

The large, breast is surrounded by sea life. Eerie chanting and pulsating light made this a, strange semi-spiritual experience. 

We walked back to another area near the old port to explore the Archeological Museum built where the ancient port of Marseille had stood. The site was discovered when a large shopping center was being built. The museum is now within the shopping center but the remnants of ancient city walls, fresh water pool and other exhibits were found along the outside walking path.

The inside of the museum contained exhibits both found and created. Sections of two wooden ships had been found during construction and had been placed inside metal framework giving us an idea of their considerable size. Other artifacts were tombstones, mosaics, pottery, and exhibits taking us through time up to the 20th century. 

We certainly built up an appetite so a late lunch was in order in the Old Port. Le Miramar boasted of having “authentic Bouillabaisse” but, as we saw the order being delivered to the next table, we decided on something a little less intimidating. Tom had the fish of the day and Mary Margaret had mussels and frites. The amuse bouche nearly had Tom eating the rocks. Everything delicious and the view of the boats and people were entertaining.

Needing to walk off our meal, we headed away from the Old Port to the busy La Bourse, the main drag of Marseille. The wide pedestrian avenue was lined with shops and beautiful architecture. The Palais de la Bourse houses the Chamber of Commerce and further on, the Tourist Information office.

Mary Margaret had wanted to purchase a round table cloth and needed to know where to make a purchase. The very helpful agent directed us to the “Maison Empereur” on 4 Rue des Récollettes. This was an amazing store having everything for the home one could imagine. It covered 3 floors providing all sorts of opportunities for browsing. Alas, no round table cloth, however, a red beret was purchased; so very French! We strolled back to the hotel, taking our time to appreciate being in this amazing city.

May 14, 2025

Our last day in Marseille and we had yet to ride on a tram. That was soon corrected when Tom suggested we explore the Palais Longchamp with its two museums: the Musée des beaux-arts and the Musée d’histoire naturelle de Marseille. We walked to the Old Port where we purchased 2 round-trip tickets at the tram stop and off we went, another beautiful day being on our own.

Our arrival at the Palais Longchamp required a short walk from the tram stop to the gates of the Palais. The impressively massive fountain immediately caught our attention with its dramatic figures of three women and four bulls ready to leap from the top of the “water tower”. The gardens were not open to the public at this time so we climbed the steps to the entrance of the museums. Again, there was no admission charge.

The museums had interesting exhibits but were a bit of a disappointment. Perhaps the building they were housed in overshadowed what was offered, however it was still a “monumental” experience!

Back on the tram to the Old Port where we walked to Fort Saint-Jean, passing the Hotel de Ville and the Square Villeneuve Bargemon. This city is filled with interesting sites and gorgeous architecture!

Fort Saint-Jean sits on one side of the harbor entrance and Fort Saint-Nicholas on the other. The Fort S-J complex, built in the 18th century, includes a 12th century monastic hospice and a 15th century tower of King René I of Provence. Before exploring the fort and museums, we paid our admission (a first!) and began wandering around. Arriving at the top of the hospice section we noticed a poster for an art installation from Laurie Prouvost, the same artist who had another work at La Vieille Charité. This one, however, was a disturbing short film showing insects being crushed with pliers; we left quickly.

Upward to the Tower for the panoramic views of the Old Port, Fort Saint-Nicholas and Notre Dame de la Garde. Back to the main fort to visit the archeological museum then crossing over a foot bridge to the rooftop of the Mucem, finding ourselves next to the Cosquer where we had taken a tour through the replica cave a couple days ago. The Mucem is a collection of European and Mediterranean art and artifacts along with exhibits on scientific and political issues.

We left the Mucem and walked back towards Le Panier, noticing the blackening sky as we passed La Cathedrale Major. We managed to make it up to the neighborhood, selecting a lunch spot before the rain. Fortunately, as we sat outside under an umbrella, the skies cleared without a drop of rain falling!

L’Ecailler du Panier primarily served seafood and specialized in oysters. This was Mary Margaret’s chance to order the famed Marseille Boulabaisse, making the meal both her lunch and dinner. Tom wisely chose the mussels and fries. We sipped on a local ale while awaiting our meals and when they came, oo-la-la! Just as large as the Miramar’s Boulibaisse! Our impression of “boulibaisse” is what is served in the States and is entirely different, or perhaps a better description is a quarter of the size served here in Marseille!

The boulabaisse was for one person! Mary Margaret could not fit the three dishes making up the lunch into one photo. Two grilled fish, a bowl of seafood and potatoes, and a “side” of toasted baguettes. A hearty meal and a “deal” for 60-euros (near the port the price was 80-euros)! Fast food is frowned upon in most of Europe and we can vouch we did not see any fast food place around Marseille. Our meal was a leisurely 2-hour feast then it was a stroll back to the hotel, to pack our bags and confirm our airport transportation for the next morning. A late, light meal at La Fenetre then off to spend our final night in Marseille, walking off dinner (and lunch!) to catch our last sunset view of the Old Port. What an amazing adventure, far beyond our expectations, giving us more wonderful memories in our “Wander Years”!