April 7, 2026

We cannot believe it has been 11 years since the beginning of our “Wander Years”, exploring areas in the world that we had only read about. Last year was an exceptional experience with our February Panama Canal cruise, joined by members of Tom’s family, then taking our first Tauck cruise on a beautiful small ship, floating around the gorgeous Mediterranean. After our return and finding ourselves in need of yet another adventure, Mary Margaret suggested that she would enjoy a European river cruise and Viking just happened to have one in Bordeaux. Perfect! However, the exhausting 24-hour return from the hotel in Marseille to our lovely Wilmington condo during last years’ trip made us rethink a return. That is until Tom started exploring a way to avoid air travel thereby avoiding jet lag. The answer is one that we began with 11 years ago: take a repositioning cruise across the Atlantic and disembark in Europe to begin our “land” adventures.

Tom has made a Herculean effort in planning our latest excursion: The “No Jet Lag” Tour. He identified Holland America’s Oosterdam, leaving from Ft. Lauderdale, FL and, 2-weeks later, ending the cruise in Barcelona, Spain. It happens to be nearly the same cruise we took at the beginning of our retirement life. To return to the USA, Tom chose the Queen Mary 2 with her regular Atlantic crossings every couple weeks. In between the cruise “bookends” is a short stay in Barcelona where we had rented an apartment for a week 11 years ago, to check in on the progress made in Gaudi’s architectural masterpiece, the Sagrada Família. A high speed train later takes us to Bordeaux where we’ll join a Viking River Tour and (bonus!) travel with our Wilmington friends, Phil and Trish Ellis. The fun won’t end there! It’s off to Paris to catch the Eurostar to London to join Insight Vacations and explore Cornwall, Devon and Wales.

The complexity of planning has Tom rethinking any future “independent” travel, preferring someone else handle the details. In the end, our motto still makes this all worth while: Postpone Nothing!

May 12-14, 2025

Marseille is reported to be the oldest city in southern France with the geography of the area lending itself to a sheltered harbor. There is evidence of a Greek settlement from 600 BC due to the harbor and the location of a nearby hill.

Our walking tour began before 9am with our energetic tour guide, Ben, leading the way. We walked from the hotel to an area known as Le Panier, a district known as the birthplace of Marseille. The Medieval streets and 18th century buildings underwent renovation and urban development and is now the center of creativity: murals on nearly every wall, artists’ studios and unique shops.

We briefly stopped in front of La Vieille Charité in the heart of Le Panier. It was an almshouse but is now a museum, on that we would explore on our own over the next 2 days. 

Onward to a square where we found the Pétanque club, currently closed at this hour, then to the Cathedral of Saint Mary major, an enormous church built during the years 1852-1893, next to the smaller 12th Century church. The site itself had religious significance since the 5th century.

We walked further into the New Port where most of the cruise ships are docked. The purpose of our walk here was to enter the Cosquer cave, or rather an exact replica of the cave that was discovered in 1985 by Henri Cosquer. He discovered a cave with Paleolithic paintings, submerged after the retreating glaciers of the Ice Age 9,000 years ago. He did not report his findings until 1991 after a diver was killed attempting to access the cave. In order to preserve the paintings, an exact replica was built in order to allow the public to see the incredible drawings and learn more about the ancient cultures known as Gravettian (34,000 to 22,000 BC) and Epigravettian (22,000 to 10,000 BC) living in what is now Provence. This was an amazing 45 minute ride through time when people drew animals and activities with red ochre and charcoal. Unfortunately, no photos were allowed in the “cave”. We explored the attached museum, purchasing a book to remind us of this experience.

Our walking tour ended at the Cosquer experience where we walked back to the street and onto a bus for a tour ending at the Basilica of Our Lady of the Garde. Unfortunately, our group was unable to tour the inside of the Basilica but fortunately for us, we had done this during our stay in 2018. We appreciated the wonderful panoramic views on a brilliant, sunny day before being driven back to the hotel to get ready for our Tauck Tour farewell dinner.

The dinner was held at Casa de Lauze, a private home turned into an event center. A beautiful space, uniquely decorated with Henri de Lauze’s souvenirs from his time as a diver. He spent 3 years working with Jacques Cousteau in underwater exploration, from 1952 to 1955.  His equipment is scattered throughout the grounds and the interior of this submarine-designed space.

Although the Tauck Tour dinner was a fond farewell to our fellow passengers and guides, the meal was a disaster! The pork dish was undercooked, the meat practically raw. Most diners were sending their plates back barely touched. (When arriving back in Wilmington, we received a check for $300 from Tauck, meant to redeem the cost of the dinner—thanks!). Despite this unfortunate turn of events, we experienced a stunning sunset before heading back to the hotel to wish our fellow passengers a proper farewell before retiring.

May 13, 2025

We enjoyed a leisurely breakfast at the hotel before setting out to explore sites that we briefly stopped by during the Tauck tour. Our first stop was the Accoules church, originally built in the 11th century and the most significant parish building in Marseille dating from the Middle Ages.

The body of church was destroyed during the French Revolution but the Sauveterre Tower survived. Accoules was rebuilt during the 18th century. The interior was not remarkable but the exterior still held remanents of Medieval times. 

Walking up the street steps from the church we arrived in the Le Panier with its colorful murals and headed to La Vieille Charité, the Old Almshouse. It had an interesting history as this is where the poor and beggars were rounded up and housed, clearing the streets of “undesirables”.  It later became a workhouse then a barracks for displaced WWII survivors. It is now a home to the alleged archeology museum. Admission was free as are most museums in Marseille.

We walked around the courtyard and climbed steps to the 2nd level. Not finding much of interest as there seem to be only municipal offices and a few spaces for exhibits, (we could find no museum) we went back into the courtyard and to the domed chapel. The artist, Laurie Prouvost, has an enormous installation in the center, hanging from the dome, called “Mother We Sea”, a tribute to the Mediterranean as a maternal entity.

The large, breast is surrounded by sea life. Eerie chanting and pulsating light made this a, strange semi-spiritual experience. 

We walked back to another area near the old port to explore the Archeological Museum built where the ancient port of Marseille had stood. The site was discovered when a large shopping center was being built. The museum is now within the shopping center but the remnants of ancient city walls, fresh water pool and other exhibits were found along the outside walking path.

The inside of the museum contained exhibits both found and created. Sections of two wooden ships had been found during construction and had been placed inside metal framework giving us an idea of their considerable size. Other artifacts were tombstones, mosaics, pottery, and exhibits taking us through time up to the 20th century. 

We certainly built up an appetite so a late lunch was in order in the Old Port. Le Miramar boasted of having “authentic Bouillabaisse” but, as we saw the order being delivered to the next table, we decided on something a little less intimidating. Tom had the fish of the day and Mary Margaret had mussels and frites. The amuse bouche nearly had Tom eating the rocks. Everything delicious and the view of the boats and people were entertaining.

Needing to walk off our meal, we headed away from the Old Port to the busy La Bourse, the main drag of Marseille. The wide pedestrian avenue was lined with shops and beautiful architecture. The Palais de la Bourse houses the Chamber of Commerce and further on, the Tourist Information office.

Mary Margaret had wanted to purchase a round table cloth and needed to know where to make a purchase. The very helpful agent directed us to the “Maison Empereur” on 4 Rue des Récollettes. This was an amazing store having everything for the home one could imagine. It covered 3 floors providing all sorts of opportunities for browsing. Alas, no round table cloth, however, a red beret was purchased; so very French! We strolled back to the hotel, taking our time to appreciate being in this amazing city.

May 14, 2025

Our last day in Marseille and we had yet to ride on a tram. That was soon corrected when Tom suggested we explore the Palais Longchamp with its two museums: the Musée des beaux-arts and the Musée d’histoire naturelle de Marseille. We walked to the Old Port where we purchased 2 round-trip tickets at the tram stop and off we went, another beautiful day being on our own.

Our arrival at the Palais Longchamp required a short walk from the tram stop to the gates of the Palais. The impressively massive fountain immediately caught our attention with its dramatic figures of three women and four bulls ready to leap from the top of the “water tower”. The gardens were not open to the public at this time so we climbed the steps to the entrance of the museums. Again, there was no admission charge.

The museums had interesting exhibits but were a bit of a disappointment. Perhaps the building they were housed in overshadowed what was offered, however it was still a “monumental” experience!

Back on the tram to the Old Port where we walked to Fort Saint-Jean, passing the Hotel de Ville and the Square Villeneuve Bargemon. This city is filled with interesting sites and gorgeous architecture!

Fort Saint-Jean sits on one side of the harbor entrance and Fort Saint-Nicholas on the other. The Fort S-J complex, built in the 18th century, includes a 12th century monastic hospice and a 15th century tower of King René I of Provence. Before exploring the fort and museums, we paid our admission (a first!) and began wandering around. Arriving at the top of the hospice section we noticed a poster for an art installation from Laurie Prouvost, the same artist who had another work at La Vieille Charité. This one, however, was a disturbing short film showing insects being crushed with pliers; we left quickly.

Upward to the Tower for the panoramic views of the Old Port, Fort Saint-Nicholas and Notre Dame de la Garde. Back to the main fort to visit the archeological museum then crossing over a foot bridge to the rooftop of the Mucem, finding ourselves next to the Cosquer where we had taken a tour through the replica cave a couple days ago. The Mucem is a collection of European and Mediterranean art and artifacts along with exhibits on scientific and political issues.

We left the Mucem and walked back towards Le Panier, noticing the blackening sky as we passed La Cathedrale Major. We managed to make it up to the neighborhood, selecting a lunch spot before the rain. Fortunately, as we sat outside under an umbrella, the skies cleared without a drop of rain falling!

L’Ecailler du Panier primarily served seafood and specialized in oysters. This was Mary Margaret’s chance to order the famed Marseille Boulabaisse, making the meal both her lunch and dinner. Tom wisely chose the mussels and fries. We sipped on a local ale while awaiting our meals and when they came, oo-la-la! Just as large as the Miramar’s Boulibaisse! Our impression of “boulibaisse” is what is served in the States and is entirely different, or perhaps a better description is a quarter of the size served here in Marseille!

The boulabaisse was for one person! Mary Margaret could not fit the three dishes making up the lunch into one photo. Two grilled fish, a bowl of seafood and potatoes, and a “side” of toasted baguettes. A hearty meal and a “deal” for 60-euros (near the port the price was 80-euros)! Fast food is frowned upon in most of Europe and we can vouch we did not see any fast food place around Marseille. Our meal was a leisurely 2-hour feast then it was a stroll back to the hotel, to pack our bags and confirm our airport transportation for the next morning. A late, light meal at La Fenetre then off to spend our final night in Marseille, walking off dinner (and lunch!) to catch our last sunset view of the Old Port. What an amazing adventure, far beyond our expectations, giving us more wonderful memories in our “Wander Years”!

May 11, 2025

Our bags are packed and left outside our door by 6:30am. Debarkation day has crept up on us and we find it difficult to leave our cocoon. We watched from the balcony as Le Dumont d’Urville quietly cruised the Côte d’Azur depositing us in Nice, France. At our last breakfast, we watched a large container-type ship load a racing yacht onto its deck, where it joined a couple other yachts.

We left sweet paradise behind, carrying a few handbags onto a bus that would drive us around Nice then off to Aix-en-Provence to explore the small city before checking into our hotel in Marseille. Memories of our 2018 stay in Nice came flooding back as we passed familiar landmarks in this beautiful city.

The drive to Aix-en-Provence was interesting in that we learned more about the unique geography of the area. The Alps end here, quite dramatically, just outside of Aix-en-Provence. 

Before taking a “necessary stop” at a service station, our guide told us that the French do not snack between meals during the day. That didn’t stop many of our group from piling out of the bus to buy potato chips! Another strange bit of information was given to us when our bus was driving around trying to find a parking place. We noticed that the truck parking area was packed with trucks and their owners/drivers sitting outside in folding chairs. The explanation given to us is that it is illegal to drive large transport trucks on Sundays so the drivers spent their day sitting around a service area. 

We arrived in Aix-en-Provence, heading to the Cathedral of the Holy Savior to start our walking tour. Bells were ringing as Mass was ending and continued to ring in celebration of the election of Pope Leo XIV the week before.

Standing in the small square across from the Cathedral, it was easy to see its transformation from the 12th century, narrow building adjoining the Cathedral to the massive Cathedral itself. It is reported to have been built on the 1st Century Roman Forum of Aix and has parts of a 6th Century Baptistery. Unfortunately, we were not allowed inside and continued on, walking past the Archbishop’s Square, now the setting for the Festival of Lyric Art.

We were led past shops selling pastries, bonbons and “Savon” (soap), continuing down the Rue Gaston de Saporta, through the monumental 14th century tower and into Place de l’Hôtel de Ville or Town Hall Square.

The square contains the Town Hall, a fountain from 1755 and the former Grain Market, now more of a farmer’s market. A maze of narrow streets led away from the square and towards our meeting place.

Before arriving there, we stopped in the Albertas Square to admire the fountain and historic family-owned buildings. Onward to the Hôtel de Valbelle, no longer a hotel but a private gallery, listed on the historic register.

We finally reached 38 Cours Mirabeau, our meeting place on a stunningly wide mostly-pedestrian avenue, lined with plane trees, shops and cafés. At one end of Cours Mirabeau is the Fountaine de la Rotonde creating a traffic roundabout. Other fountains within the pedestrian area are unique, including the historic Fontaine des Neuf-Canons. It was built in 1651 and was a watering trough for sheep that were being herded from Arles to the Alps.

We were finally given free time to explore Aix on our own and grab a late lunch. First, Mary Margaret had to return to Town Hall Square to purchase “Belle de Nuit”, a fragrance from the Fragonard shop, a reminder of our visit to Grasse, France in 2018. Back to Cours Mirabeau and into the Dahlia for lunch, just before it started to rain. Once we finished it was back to our meeting place for a short walk to the bus. We passed the Square of the Four Dolphins to admire the fountain, built in 1667, and caught a glimpse of the Church of Saint-Jean-de-Malte. There wasn’t enough time to tour this 13th Century church but we were told that the 1995 film, “Beyond the Clouds” includes the interior. 

Overall, this was a full day of learning more about the rich history of Provence, admiring the architecture and walking the narrow, Medieval streets. We left Aix-en-Provence, passing the Aqueduct des 25 Ponts crossing over the A8 as we headed to Marseille.

We finally reached Marseille and checked in to the impressive Intercontinental Hotel. Our spacious room had a large window with a tight view of the Old Port. Before opening the window, Tom noticed a written warning that children should be monitored as the window did not lock and was open to the outside. As we were located on the 6th floor, it was a bit of a drop! Due to the late lunch and full day, we decided to have a light dinner in the hotel. Tomorrow was going to be a full day and our last “official” day with Tauck.

May 10, 2025

Our last stop on this amazing cruise was Elba, a small island just off the coast of the Tuscany region of Italy, its shape similar to a Goldfish cracker. Elba is best known for its most famous resident, Napoleon Bonaparte. In 1814, one of the greatest military leaders in history and the emperor of France, abdicated his throne and was banished to Elba, a location he chose and one very close to Corsica, his birthplace.

During his 10-month residency, he brought Elba into the 19th century, so to speak, as he helped create a sewer system, representative government and roads. He even designed the flag of Elba: a white flag with a diagonal red stripe where 3 bees are perched, some say representing the “worker bees” of Elba, creating a modern day nation.

Our bus left Portoferrio in the early morning hours and arrived at Villa San Martino, alleged to be the summer residence of Napoleon, however he never lived in the villa. He did chose the site as he wanted to escape from Portoferrio’s summer heat as most residents chose to leave for the mountains in the summer. Villa San Martino is not far from Portoferrio. 

Some time after Napoleon left Elba in February 1815, the project was completed and another begun. Over the following decades, the estate fell into disrepair until the arrival of Anatolio Demidoff, a Russian, art collector and admirer of Napolean. He restored the Villa and built the Gallery, the impressive building that is seen at the end of the very long driveway. 

The interior of the villa has some interesting features: painted walls using tromp d’oeil and an inset in the “Egyptian Room” floor where papyrus had grown. This was confirmed by our guide, Lucille, who moved to Elba in 1983 and toured the villa at that time. Now, the inset has a plexiglass covering. There were paintings and sketches but overall, a disappointment. We expected to see over-the-top extravagance fit for a former Emperor. Instead, we toured a shell of empty promises.

Our sprits were lifted after being dropped off in the beautiful beach town of Porto Azzurro. The translation of “azzurro” is “blue” and entirely correct for this harbor side location. There must have been 50 shades of blue all around us even before we stopped to explore on foot 

Historically, Elba was an important source of iron ore and enjoyed trade with all Mediterranean populations up until 1983 when the industry ceased. 

We were given free time; Mary Margaret used it wisely. She purchased a colorful scarf with a poppy design then, just a few stores away, found a pair of earrings to match. The scent of the sea was captured and bottled in “Aqua dell Elba”. So much energy was expended that it was time to indulge in gelato. The “piccolo” portion was American-size!

Our last stop before heading back to the ship for our last evening aboard was at the La Chiusa winery. An absolutely gorgeous location with views of the sea and vineyard. Unfortunately, the wine itself was not terribly exciting. The white was good but the rosé was tasteless and had a tannic feel. The red seemed to have no body at all; definitely flabby. That said, it was so beautiful and relaxing, listening to the singer and munching on Tuscan treats.

We walked back to the bus and on to the ship for our farewell celebration and repacking our belongings. We viewed a video taken during this excursion, narrated by the ship’s photographers creating a souvenir with which we can torment our visitors!

Although the cruise ended, the Tauck Tour continues with debarkation in Nice then a bus ride to Aix-en-Provence for a walking tour and lunch. Our day will end in Marseille, where we will spend the next 3 days of our trip. What a journey!

May 9, 2025

Bonifacio’s white chalk cliffs were the first things we noticed as Le Dumont d’Urville made it’s way to her assigned anchorage. The closer we cruised the more beautiful the city became with the sunrise. Today, we will tender into port and join a walking tour of this small city perched on a cliff.

Corsica is mostly granite and craggy mountains with the east shoreline having the popular beaches and the west filled with harbors and inlets. The population of 306,000 rugged individuals live in an environmentally unique region with different climates depending on where you travel. There is a Mediterranean climate, a subalpine zone, and a mountain zone, each having protected plants and animals such as the feral sheep, mouflon, and its signature plant, the fragrant maquis.

A mini train transported us upward, 213-feet from the port to the citadel where we began our walking tour. Suzanne, our guide, gave us the long complicated history, beginning with her own. She told us she arrived in Bonifacio several years ago to teach waterskiing and never left. She has done practically every job imaginable including raising goats and making cheese for 20 years.

During our walk, she offered insights into the history of Corsica, with evidence of human inhabitants as early as 8,000 years ago with the discovery of a small statue, the “Old Lady of Bonifacio”, in a cave wall. There is also an interesting reference to Bonifacio in Homer’s “Odysseus” where Laestrygonians hurled boulders from the cliffs, sinking 11 Greek ships. It was easy to imagine this as we stood at an overlook, staring down into the narrow entrance of the natural harbor.

In 828, a Tuscan nobleman sailed into the fjord-like harbor and decided to live here, building a castle in the area of the citadel, however not much population growth came from this endeavor. The Genovese were the most impactful, ruling over this island for 400 years. The Catholic Church sent the Knights Templar for a short period to protect the island from the Moors. The Dominican Church’s bell tower they built still stands today. Suzanne was a walking textbook of historical information!

We were led through narrow streets, under rainwater “aqueducts” looking like flying buttresses. We learned where the water collected when we arrived at the 13th century church of St. Marie Majeure.

Our group stood on the loggia that covered a 650 cubic foot cistern. This was the only source of fresh water during times of siege. 

While waiting for others in our group to join us after touring the interior of the church, Suzanne gave us a sample of cork, recently taken from a tree. Cork is an export material from Corsica and is not just for wine bottles. There are many products using cork as their primary material (purses, belts, etc).

We asked Suzanne about the Corsican flag we’ve seen  and its blindfolded man. She gave us a couple theories but the most popular is that it is symbolic of the struggle for freedom and standing up to oppression. The man lifts his blindfold to look his executioner in the eye. It’s certainly memorable!

Our next history lesson was on the Street of Emperors: Charles V stayed here for just 3 days in 1541 but Napoleon Bonaparte was born on this street in 1769. We passed his modest dwelling, heading to one of 8 city gates, this one having a working drawbridge.

The view from the drawbridge was as breathtaking as any of the overlooks where we had stopped. It was more informative as we could identify the walkway we needed to take to get back to the Port to enjoy our free time.

One of the main reasons we choose Tauck as a tour company is the quality of local guides . Suzanne made our tour of Bonifacio exceptional with the depth of her knowledge of history and culture of this French island, the birthplace of Napoleon Bonaparte.

We returned to the ship, greeted by other passengers indulging in happy hour, tasting Pietra, a chestnut beer, and Cannonau, a “Blue Zone” red wine from neighboring Sardinia. The evening entertainment was a delightful surprise. Corsican musicians sang melodic folk songs with and without instruments. The young trio, ORM, was a huge hit with our group!

Le Dumond d’Urville cruised away from beautiful Bonifacio and towards the island of Elba, our last stop before leaving the ship. As we cruised away, we got a better view of ancient stairs, looking like a thin black line leading diagonally from the top of the city to the water’s edge. These stairs were used by the populace to draw water from a spring near the bottom of the cliff before the cistern was built. Fortunately, we didn’t need to use those steps! It was another amazing day, reflecting on our adventure while sipping on wine and munching on Corsican delights, watching the world go by!

May 8, 2025

Sardinia, or Sardenga, is a beautiful island with a population of 1.5 million. Le Dumont d’Urville cruised up the coastline in the early morning hours to the city of Olbia, the beginning of Costa Smeralda or the Emerald Coast. 

We arrived at the port in the early afternoon, allowing us to indulge in an onboard feast of Mafaldine pasta cooked in a Parmesan cheese wheel! Black truffle enhanced the flavor—we are truly spoiled!

Our tour took us along this beautiful coastline, making a photo stop on our way to the village of San Pantaleo. Sardinia is a fairly flat island with the Sarda sheep outnumbering the human population. Both the Sarda sheep and goats are indigenous to the island and are mainly used in the production of cheese as their coats are too coarse for clothing fabric. Pecorino cheese is made from sheep milk as is Pecorino Romano. There are vineyards on this island with vermentino being known as Sardinia’s regional wine.

Our tour stopped at the village of San Pantaleo, located between Olbia and Arzachena in the Gallura region of Northern Sardinia and near the huge granite formations of Cugnana. It is known for its artist community, beautiful square and the filming of James Bond’s “The Spy Who Loved Me”. We wandered around, purchasing a small nautilus-shaped dish to remind us of this place. 

Back on the bus and down to the historic center of Olbia where left the bus at the steps of the San Simplicio Piazza. Walking up the steps and onto the square, we were given a view of the Basilica of San Simplicio, a significant religious landmark. It was built in the late 11th century on a small hill and over an earlier church possibly built in the 6th century. Stepping inside this simply built church was stepping back in time.

We left the church and walked to the pedestrian shopping area filled with stores and restaurants. There are virtually no public restrooms in any of the stops we’ve had, outside of designated historic sites. As it was late afternoon and only 40 minutes of “free time”, we stopped at a café and ordered a glass of prosecco before using the restrooms. That is how it is done! 

Sardinia is a gorgeous island with wealthy enclaves along the eastern coastline. We had originally signed up for a tour of the archeology museum, however the museum was closed for renovations. The bus tour was delightful, taking us past breathtaking views and introducing us to the unique geography and people of this island.

May 7, 2025

Our first view of Palermo’s beautiful Porta Nuova was at sunrise, promising a day full of light and adventure. It has been difficult to determine how to dress for the weather as reports indicate cooler days in the high 60s, low 70s, however the sun is strong, making it feel much warmer. Today it is just 62 degrees this morning and should be no warmer than 68 degrees. Breakfast consumed, sunscreen applied, hat and sunglasses at the ready as we leave the ship and head to a tour bus that will take us into the old city.

We rode along the Cordova Vittorio Emanuele, passing the beautiful Opera House and stopped at the old city market. Giorgio, our local guide explained that Palermo was a melting pot of cultures, predominately the Greeks, Romans, Arabs and Normans, however other cultures left their mark in terms of food. “It’s like a lasagna”: olives brought from the Phoenicians, citrus trees and sugar cane from the Moors (Arabs) and the prickly pear from Mexico brought by New World explorers in the 1500s.

Today is Wednesday or “fish day”, according to Giorgio. We passed a number of vendors as we made our way down the narrow isles listening to the continuing narration on food, plants and culture. There are hundreds of types of pasta in Italy and Palermo is known for Anelletti, a small, ring-shaped pasta (think Spaghetti Os), used in Anelletti al Forno. This dish is baked in an oven with a meat sauce and mozzarella cheese; comfort food!

The bus took us to another section and dropped us off where we walked to the Piazza Croce De Verpri and into a renovated, family-owned palace. Giorgio explained that due to heavy bombing during 1943 (WWII), many of the historic buildings were damaged or destroyed. The population did not want to rebuild in the old city, preferring to live in the newly built areas. The deterioration continued in the 1970s with increasing violence of the Mafia and drug use. In the 1990s, Mayor Orlando wanted to change Palermo’s image and focused on rebuilding the historic center. He began with the Opera House and offered partial payments to prior owners to renovate/rebuild their homes. Gradually, the historic center was rebuilt and became a tourist destination in 2015.

The Palazzo Valguarnera Gangi is a noble palace and is considered the most sumptuous private residence in Sicily. It is still owned by descendants of the Valguarnera family and retains original 17th and 18th century furnishings and artwork. We were greeted by a butler at the gate and led into a courtyard. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to take photographs inside the palazzo.

The Princess Gangi, a youthful looking 60ish woman led the tour through her home, explaining the ongoing renovation projects she and her husband have undertaken over the last few decades. She is from France and owns property there, “otherwise we would never have been able to afford the renovations”. Her husband’s grandfather, Benedetto Mantegna, Prince Gangi, had invited the famous German composer, Wagner, to visit. He accepted and composed some of the first bars of “Parsifal” in 1882. Other notable visitors were Queen Elizabeth, Edward II, prime ministers and royalty.

We were led through one amazing room after another, given information on the restoration of painted tile floors, silk wall hangings, ceiling paintings and unusual features such as the double ceiling in the “Mirror Room” with its enormous painted glass chandelier. The couple who had been hired for one of the restoration projects for 4 months, has now worked on nearly every project for the last 17 years. The Princess Gangi referred us to the movie “The Leopard” that was filmed here in 1961 when her mother-in-law was in residence, to give us an idea of the interior renovations.

We left the Palazzo after refreshments and a book purchase. It was truly an amazing experience and a highlight of the trip! Back to reality and one last stop to tour Santa Catarina Church, another feast for the eyes. Before reaching the stunning church, we had a bit of free time to explore, find a restroom then meet at the church entrance. There was a film crew at the Piazza Bellini creating a distraction but did not deter us from treats and a brief stop at a skinny, 3-story bookstore. Fascinating!

The interior is an example of Sicilian Baroque with ceramics, marble, lapis lazuli and gold leaf everywhere. This was the church and convent of the Dominican Nuns.

We walked around the cloister then out and through the Piazza Vigliena to the Piazza Pretoria, known as the “Square of Shame”. The name was given to the piazza due to the enormous fountain with its naked statues placed within sight of the nun’s dormitory. Oh my!

We were delivered back to the port in the early afternoon, relaxing in our cabin and then to attend the “Audipizzo Anti-Mafia”, a lecture on efforts to combat Mafia activity in Sicily. Surprisingly, the Mafia still exists but has grown weaker after the horrific assassinations of two judges in 1992. The public outcry led to a grassroots movement to end the Mafia’s stranglehold on the citizens. There continues to be “Pizzo” or extortion for payment of protection money. The young man giving the lecture is a member of the anti mafia group and boldly wore a T-shirt with “No More Mafia” on it. We were shocked to learn that the Mafia is still active here although to a lesser degree than in earlier times.

This is Italian Night and the chefs have prepared specialty meals for the passengers. Tauck is also celebrating its 100th birthday. There was a small celebration and cake in the lounge. The biggest surprise was the sighting of a whale during dinner! The captain announced a whale spout had been spotted on the port side, the side where we just happened to be dining. A few spouts were seen plus a glimpse of a flute. What a day!

May 6, 2025

The entire reason we are on this cruise is today’s destination: Taormina, Italy. Tom has long described this as one of the most beautiful cities he had visited when he was in the Navy. For Mary Margaret, today was all about confirming that was the case. It is perched on a terrace, high above the Ionic Sea and has Mt. Etna in its backyard.

The d’Urville made its way to the anchor area in the early morning hours. We watched Mt. Etna make an appearance as the sun rose, wearing winter snow at the top. Heading to the bow, we saw Taormina on the hillside confirming it was still there.

A tender dropped us off on the pier at Giardini Naxos, a beach town less than 5 miles away from Taormina. Sophia herded our group of 12 to a shuttle bus and off we went, climbing 800 feet above sea level. Taormina is a very small town with a population of about 4,000 people. Off we walked through a medieval gate and into the pedestrian area of Taormina. Our first stop was in front of St. Catarina Church that had been built on the ruins of a small Roman theater. This small theater was built on top of a Greek temple. Just scratch the surface anywhere in this part of the world and there is something amazing.

The streets are made from cobblestone formed by Mt. Etna’s previous eruptions. It is an active volcano with a recent eruption only 3 days ago. A volcanologist gave a lecture the previous afternoon and made it sound as if living close to Mt. Etna was not much of an issue. In fact, they refer to the volcano as “Mama” and that she provides for them by producing fertile soil from the rich elements contained in lava. Sophia, our guide, shared photographs showing eruptions over the past couple of years.

Sophia led us to the most famous site in Taormina: the 2nd Century BC Greek theater. It was carved from limestone and had an open view of the sea and Mt. Etna. The Romans came along and “improved” it by turning it into an arena, closing off the stunning views. Today, there are views once again and many theatrical and entertainment events are held in its ruins. We had just finished making our way from the stage level to the top of the theater when it started to rain. Fortunately it didn’t last long and we were once again on our way back to Corso Umberto, the main shopping street.

Sicily is known for its ceramics and in particular ceramic heads. They are seen everywhere and have many uses. There were heads being used as planters, as balcony decorations and as wine coolers. Another famous Sicilian creation is the cannoli. We had a special treat given to us by Roberto Chemi: freshly made cannolis to enjoy on our walk. He is a friend of our guide and is reported to make the best pastries in all of Taormina. We believe it!

We continued on, passing clothing stores, restaurants and a curious alley that is less than 2 feet wide. There is a restaurant at the top so maybe it is a way to determine if you need another meal!

We eventually reached The 9th of April Square with its panoramic viewing area of the sea and Le Dumont d’Urville waiting patiently for our return. Just off the square there was a fountain with sea creatures near the 13th century Basilica of St. Nicholas of Bari. Once inside the church, we had hoped to see historic architecture. Instead, there was an artistic display of a miniature Taormina and no ability to walk any further into the interior.

Walking back to our meeting place, it was clear that hoards of tourists were heading our way, filling the narrow Corso Umberto and making us happy to be on our way.

After some free time, we went back to our shuttle bus and away from Taormina, heading to a family owned vineyard where we would have lunch.

The Gambino family has owned the property for a couple generations and started the business in 1978. The vines have been planted in volcanic soil and produce delicious wines. The lunch included wine tasting and began with an antipasto plate, moved on to pasta and ended with a sausage dish. Mary Margaret ordered wine to be shipped back to the US along with a bottle of exceptional olive oil.

We learned from our Tauck Italian guide that there are Italian rules as to what is appropriate  food to be served on the same plate. For example: Pasta is not served with meat; Meat and fish cannot be served on the same plate; Chicken is not served with pasta; no cheese with fish; cappuccino is only appropriate in the mornings before 11 am and no later (you may be refused!). No spaghetti and meat balls? Utica’s signature dish, Chicken Riggie’s, is an abomination! 

It was a day full of ancient wonders and modern day delights. We boarded the shuttle and went back to Giardini Naxos where we caught the tender back to the ship. Our last event was sailing through the Straits of Messina, between the island of Sicily and the “toe” of the boot of Italy. After Le Dumont d’Urville made it through, we watched a spectacular sunset, making this a truly wonderful day!

May 5, 2025: First stop, Siracusa

The Le Dumont d’Urville is a beautifully designed and gorgeously appointed craft. Our stateroom was small but comfortable with eco-friendly bottled water in glass and our very own reusable water bottle to take with us on our excursions. Lounge and dining areas, a library, several bars and a small “infinite” pool on the back deck with fabulous views. The “Blue Eye” was a below the waterline bar with an observation window but, unfortunately, was only open after 9pm so not much to see. The French crew included several chefs providing exceptional meals. 

Not a climbing wall or water slide to be seen!

Our first on shore excursion in Sicily was in Siracusa where we were bused a short distance to the Archaeological Park. This is the site of a massive Greek theater, created by hand chiseling through the limestone. We walked to an area just behind the theater, past several bronze statues created by a 21st century artist.

At the bottom of the former quarry, now lush garden, we stopped to observe the Ear of Dionysus, given that name by a paranoid Caravaggio who was convinced he was being followed and spied upon. 

Walking into the huge opening, our guide began clapping his hands with the sound loudly echoing in this huge space. We were shown the chisel marks, marveling at the strength needed to create this enormous structure. 

We walked around to the front of the theater, however could not go into the theater itself as the limestone, where uncovered, is fragile or at least should not be trampled on by thousands of tourists. The height of the theater is 82 feet and 213 feet wide. Leaving the theater, we walked near the quarries and a short distance to the arena.

The Romans arrived and built an arena in a separate area, known as the Latonia del Paradiso, used for gladiators and not actors. Acting was considered undignified by the Romans but revered by the Greeks. 

After returning to the port, we walked into charming Ortigia, one of the earliest settlements on Sicily, and situated on an island that is only 1 square km in size. On Ortigia are the remnants of a Temple of Apollo, from 6th century BC, and Cathedral Square, the largest open space in all the island. 

The Cathedral of Syracuse is located in the historic center, built over a Greek temple, part of which is found in the walls of the cathedral.

From the square we walked past vendors selling tasty treats, to Diana fountain depicting the myth of Diana, the nymph who turned Actaeon into a stag after he saw her au naturale.

While walking back to the ship, we encountered another water feature, considered sacred by Syracuseans: the Fountain of Arethusa. This looked more like a pond but is a freshwater spring on the edge of the sea. The legend of Arethusa, a nymph, relates her flight to Ortigia from the pursuit of Alpheus, a river god, where she prays to Artemis. He transformed her into a spring thereby escaping Alpheus. This natural spring sports exotic vegetation; papyrus is seen growing there.

We walked back to the ship, past the Fountain of Arethusa for a relaxing afternoon before dressing up for our first Gala evening.

April 29-30, 2025:

We left Wilmington and flew to Atlanta where we boarded a 4:15 Delta flight to Rome, Italy. The plane was crowded and uncomfortable for the duration of the 9-hour flight. Very little sleep but, when reaching Rome at 9am, we were fully awake and anxious to locate our Malta flight. As luck would have it, it was the gate furthest from our arrival gate, however, we had ample time before the flight and being able to walk was actually quite pleasant. We boarded another large plane, crowded but a short hour plus flight. Our bags arrived promptly in Malta and a Tauck representative was just outside the arrival gate, directing us to our driver. A short 20 minutes later, we were at the Marriott, settling into a large room with a huge balcony, overlooking gorgeous St. Julian Bay. Delightful!

We attempted to nap but this wasn’t working out well so off we went to explore the surrounding area and identify a late lunch spot. Tower Road runs along the coast and has a wide walkway for pedestrians. We eventually found a castle-like restaurant on the water and determined this was going to be our recovery zone. A couple of Maltese specialty appetizers and rabbit to share, we sipped on Cisk, the local brew and planned our next steps.

This evening a final fireworks display was scheduled as part of a week long international competition. We are not fully aware of the history but thought we might try to make it until we started reminiscing about our Sydney, Australia New Year’s Eve fireworks extravaganza. Based on our low energy level and dread in trying to fight the crowds, we decided to forego the event and just be satisfied with being in this beautiful country. A stroll back to our hotel and fast asleep by 8pm.

May 1, 2025

Awoke to the sound of a crowing rooster to view the sunrise in our new location. The temperature and humidity are at a very pleasant, tolerable level. In fact, the morning was cool at 63 degrees but quickly warmed, especially in the direct sunlight.

We had a buffet breakfast, foregoing the mimosas and walked around the neighborhood. Across from the church was a stop for Malta Sight Seeing, the local hop on/hop off bus. As we were not going to hop off anywhere, we decided to purchase tickets for two days, giving us more information on this small country and introducing us to its delightful scenery.

The Red Route took us around Valletta and south, into areas further from the capital. It was hard not to “hop off” as many of the stops sounded interesting. We passed the Valletta Harbor, a UNESCO World Heritage Site noted as one of the few surviving walled cities. Further on was Fort St. Angelo guarding the Grand Harbor as it did during the Great Siege of 1565 and, more recently, the bombing by the Axis during WWII. The Hypogeum, an underground Neolithic complex dating from 2,500 BC, and the Tarxien Temples from 2,000 BC were on the route as well. Fishing villages, defensive towers and the popular Blue Grotto gave us lasting memories of Malta’s beautiful countryside.

After being on the bus for 3 hours, it was back to the beginning of the route. What an interesting ride. We walked to Gululu for a very late lunch and discussed plans for the next day. We agreed we would do laundry and then join the Maltese Sight Seeing Bus to ride around the Blue Route, taking us to the northern areas of Malta.

May 2, 2025

Tom packed our 2-days worth of laundry into a small backpack, a feat he had learned to successfully perform during our many cruises. The Portugue Landry was a 10 minute walk and, after yesterday’s reconnaissance to scope out the location, Mary Margaret was set with the AirWallet app, downloaded and loaded with money. It was a small laundromat but we were able to accomplish the task in less than 2 hours. A massive supermarket was just up the street and time was spent wandering up and down the isles, finally purchasing a very large reusable bag to handle the clean and folded laundry. Back to the hotel to pick up our Tauck packet and off to breakfast. It had been a full day already!

Out the door and off to travel on the Blue Line to discover interesting sites in the north. We left the coastal resort of Sliema, where the hotel is located, and traveled past a yacht marina, the San Anton Garden and onward to Ta’Qali Crafts Village. Unfortunately, no time to shop but we were sure there would be plenty of retail opportunities throughout the next 2 weeks.

More historic sites included the city of Mdina, the original capital of Malta; Rabat, an agricultural center and former Roman city; and Mgarr, home to 2 of Malta’s prehistoric sites. The bus took us in and around St. Paul’s Bay and St. George’s Bay, with water views and the Aquarium. By the time we reached Balluta Bay, 3 hours had passed and we were ready to call it a day. We rested up and headed to the Tauck welcome reception and dinner where we met a few of our fellow travelers. Tomorrow it is discovering Valletta and tracking down the restaurant where we dined 10 years ago.

May 3, 2025

Valletta seemed significantly more crowded than the last time we were here. In October 2015, we were heading back to the USA on a repositioning cruise and stopped for a few hours in Valletta. Today, we are on a guided tour, making all the difference as far as learning more about the history. Our first stop was the Malta Experience. We walked down a steep staircase into a long tunnel, taking us to a theater. We were informed that  tunnels run all through Valletta, making it easy to escape from pirates and other threats. It was also of benefit to smugglers. We watched a 15-minute film on Malta’s history, from prehistoric inhabitants dating back nearly 5,000 years to the Knights of St. John, to the battles waged to gain control of this strategically located island nation.

From the waterfront, we walked a steep street to the Casa Rocco Piccola, a 16th Century palace of a noble Maltese family. The 9th Marquis and Marchioness de Piro live here and have opened their home to the public. It is an extraordinary home with generations of furnishing testifying to both the longevity and wealth of its residents. We had the pleasure of meeting the Marquis, a friendly, down-to-earth sort, who gave us some history and confirmed this is not a museum but a home with all the idiosyncratic decor one might find. It was originally built for his ancestor who was a Knight of Malta.

A boxy-looking dark piece of furniture is from the 16th century and is in the same room as a (17th century?) “traveling altar”. The Marquis opened it for our group and was quite proud to tell us about its origin and the fact that it was in his house. There was a side chapel that held various artifacts, including slippers from 4 popes. We were led through various rooms where there were different materials used for flooring, books and collections of chess pieces, the music room with dozens of photographs displayed on a grand piano; another room held a few silver surgical instruments from the days when Malta was known as “the nurse of the Mediterranean”. Silver is an antiseptic so they most likely had better success at healing patients! 

We left the main house and entered the courtyard where we were treated to a bit of entertainment by the pet parrot, Kiki, refreshments of Honey Rings, a traditional Maltese treat, and beverages to quench our thirst. Interestingly, there is an entrance to a bomb shelter within the courtyard; Mary Margaret just had to explore it! The bomb shelter is quite extensive but narrow with a second entrance leading inside the main house.

Our last stop on the walking tour was St. John’s Co-Cathedral and it was just as amazing as we remembered. It was commissioned in 1572 and dedicated to St. John the Baptist. Over the decades, priceless artwork, gilded accents and intricate marble works created a magnificent interior, making us feel we were wandering around inside a jewelry box. Many knights and religious figures are buried in the floor of the nave, covered with fantastic, colorful coats of arms, symbols and figures. It was overwhelming!

There are 9 chapels surrounding the nave, of which 8 are dedicated to each order of the Knights of St. John. The Chapel of the Langue of Aragon is dedicated to St. George with Mattie Preti’s masterpiece, “St. George on Horseback”. 

We were led to the former Oratory to view Caravaggio’s “The Beheading of St. John”, (1608) a massive painting created specifically for this room and as payment for the Knights allowing Caravaggio to stay in Malta. His second contribution was located just off the main Oratory, “St. Jerome Writing”. Our eyes were about to fall out of our heads!

We left the Co-Cathedral and were allowed free time to explore Valletta to shop or have lunch. We wanted to have lunch at the same restaurant we dined at 10-years ago, a small, mom-and-pop operation, so off we went. Sadly, Ristorante San Pablo was no longer in business. We asked the proprietor of the Beati Paoli, next door to the former restaurant, if he knew what happened. He did not, but given the age of the Cassars and the destructiveness of the COVID-19 pandemic, it was no surprise the restaurant had closed. 

We decided to have our lunch at Beati Paoli and were delighted with both the food and atmosphere. Tom insisted he finally had the steak au poivre he had known in Hong Kong’s Repulse Bay Hotel. It was superb!

Lunch over and back to Palazzo Ferreira, the meeting point where we joined our fellow travelers. Once back at the hotel, we packed our belongings, excited for tomorrow’s sightseeing and finally embarking on the cruise portion of our adventure!

May 4, 2025: Embarkation Day

Our luggage was picked up while we were at breakfast. It was time to check out and join our final excursion in Malta before joining the cruise part of our journey. The first stop was the Archaeological Park, the Haġar Qim & Mnajdra ruins. Before arriving at the park, we were given a history lesson, dating from 8,500 years ago when Hunter-Gatherers arrived from Sicily, crossing a much shallower sea, a distance of only 60 miles. The Archaeological Park contains evidence of the second population wave, one that built temples.

The fascinating aspect about this site is that the temples were pre-Egyptian, estimated to have been built about 5,200 BC. Between the Hunter-Gatherers and the Temple Builders were people that developed farming communities. When death occurred, the person was not buried in a specific place nor did it appear that markers were used to signify someone was buried in that location. The reason people began to build temples here is unknown. 

The temples were excavated and items and bones were discovered here. Red ochre was used on the dead and on the walls in certain areas of the temple. Fertility figures found and dated to 3,600 BC. Carvings on walls and pillars show snakes (reincarnation—they shed skin), spirals (eternity) and plant features. There was no written language so archeologists can only speculate about the possible cultural significance: was this a healing cult, did the stone placement involve astronomy, etc. For some unknown reason, the Temple People abruptly disappeared from this site.

Other cultures had occupied the area, from the Bronze Age, and finally the Phoenicians where there is a written record. The small island, Filial, is seen through one of the temple openings, possibly considered a home of a god. It is much smaller than during the Temple People era as it was used as target practice during the bombing of WWII. 

We left this fascinating historical site and traveled to Mdina, a walled city and the old capital of Malta. Our guide informed us that this city of 250 people is celebrating its Medieval era today and to expect people dressed in costumes led by young men with drums and flags. Our group entered the city once crossing over the bridge and immediately found ourselves walking amid characters from the Middle Ages!

Walking to the Cathedral Square, we admired St. Paul’s Cathedral and noticed that a section of the square was partitioned off, keeping the center clear for the festivities. Onward through narrower streets to Bastion Square where we had a panoramic view of Valletta and the sea.

We had free time before lunch so explored this small “city”, dropping in to St. Peter’s Church and Monastery before being distracted by the loud banging of drums. Back to Cathedral Square to watch the parade of nobles and to meet our group. Lunch was in a building built in 1503 which continued to give us the feeling of living in Medieval times. 

We rode back to Valletta where we boarded Le Dumont d’Urville, a gorgeous ship, small enough to carry its 145 passengers and114 crew members around the smaller islands and shallower waters.