March 14, 2022
Monday found us traveling similar routes in Rabat but still extraordinary as our guide took us on slightly different routes. Yassim encouraged us to »look down » both to avoid tripping and to notice the surface we were walking on. The small smooth stones created a pattern with a slightly bumpy surface. This caused grain or other small foodstuffs to intermittently fall from wagons as they were pushed through the streets, providing food for birds. We ended up at the Ouadaya Café, where we had enjoyed our first mint tea with Stephen. It was a refreshing and tasty surprise.
After indulging in sweets and a glass of Moroccan whiskey (mint tea), we were driven to the actual “Tour Hassan” or Hassan’s Tower and the Mausoleum of Mohammed V. Unfortunately, we were unable to tour the mausoleum due to renovations. As we were snapping photos of the guards on horseback, 7 black limos pulled up and out came a delegation of men robed in finery with their women well behind (as life should be according to Tom!). We later learned this group was a delegation from an economic conference of African Nations.
The Hassan Tower was built in the 12th century and is actually the minaret of a never completed great mosque. It rises 140 feet above 348 unfinished columns. The enormous mosque had an area of 600 x 456 feet and was intended to be the largest mosque in the Muslim world. Sadly, al-Mansur, the 3rd Caliph, died before completion and all construction stopped. Today, the Mauseoleum of Mohammed V is located within the walls of this complex. He was the king who fought for Morrocan independence in the mid-20th century and remains revered.
Photo op over, we returned to the bus and drove out of Rabat passing through Dar-al-Makhzhen, the Royal Palace and residence of King Mohammed VI. We were only able to glimpse buildings, guards and gardens, marveling at the architecture. The bus made a quick stop, allowing us to take photos of the new opera house, reminding us a bit of the Sydney Opera House in that it had a unique shape.
We headed to the wine region of Meknes, about an hour away from Rabat. How strange to have a winery in Morocco! Muslims are forbidden to drink any alcohol so we were surprised at our good fortune. Our winery guide, Mohammed, explained the production is really for non-Muslim consumption. He said he is the target of much ridicule from his family and friends for working at the winery “especially with my name, Mohammed, the Prophet!” He states Muslims can get arrested if they are found drinking or buying alcohol; he’s been arrested twice and had to pay a fine. We guess he’s safe behind the vineyard doors!
After the generous wine tasting and delicious lunch, it was back on the bus, stopping at an overlook above Fes for our first view of the world’s largest ancient Medina. Although the alleyways could not be viewed, the number of buildings seemingly lumped together gave us a preview of tomorrow’s adventure.
The exotic overview was followed by our check in to the luxurious, modern Hotel Sahrai.
As our time was our own after check-in, Mary Margaret scheduled a Hammam, or ritual bath, as late as possible so the relaxing effects would allow for a full night’s sleep. After enjoying a light dinner and cocktails in the Jungle “social club”, it was on to the spa where she was stripped down, thrown into a steam room until she was parboiled, then led to a room with a marble slab where she was instructed to lay face down. She described the “ritual bath” as being scrubbed with black soap and scrubby sponge, peeling away at least a layer of skin. A fragrant oil was liberally applied then, sliding (literally) off the table and into a robe, she was led to a reclining lounge where she nearly fell asleep. Back to reality, to her clothes and to our room where she enjoyed a most relaxing sleep!
Random photos from our time in Rabat:
