December 8, 2022, Thursday: Puerto Montt
We enjoyed a relaxing sea day, listening to lectures, playing mahjong and glamming up for “Dressy Night”. No longer any need for a tux or a gown these days! We arrived at Puerto Montt and joined on onshore excursion to see the explore the contrasts of this region compared to the arid central coast. It was abundantly clear that this region was different as we were greeted with misty rain and much cooler weather.
Jessica was an informative guide and gave us much more information not only on what we would see on the tour but what has happened to this region in the tumultuous social crisis of 2019. But first, we drove around our first of three areas covered on the tour: Puerto Montt.
Puerto Montt is often referred to as the city of 4 hills as it climbs from the port to the Pan American Highway. Fishing is the primary industry and includes salmon farming. This area of Chile was settled by Germans, beginning in the 1850s. The older houses were built from the Alerce tree, similar to the Redwood found in California. It is resistant to wet weather and clearly ages well as seen in the remaining wooden homes. Alerce is now protected so new construction uses concrete and metal. We passed the Cathedral but it was behind a chain link fence. Jessica explained that the riots in 2019 had damaged many buildings, including the church. Our bus drove on, up to the Pan American Highway where we discussed the current events and unrest in Chile.
The problems creating the “Social Crisis” are poverty, poor education and health services as well as the underfunded pension system for the elderly. A worker’s average income is $300 per month; retirement pension is about $250. Oil and gas are unaffordable for home heating so wood is used as heating fuel. The people revolted in 2019, destroying property and protesting in the streets. We saw graffiti everywhere on every building, even homes. Jessica reports that there is a safety concern for people in Puerto Montt (pick pockets, shop lifting). The economic situation only worsened with Covid and the loss of tourism. A new constitution was drawn up but voted down by the people in May 2022 as it led to more socialism. Fortunately, our social studies lecture ended and we moved on to the next stop: Puerto Varas, the City of Roses.
Puerto Varas is situated on the shore of Lago Llanquihue, the second largest lake in Chile. Unfortunately, the misty day did not provide the spectacular, Mt. Fuji-like view of the Osorno volcano. The village square was decorated for Christmas and, as the name implies, there were roses everywhere!
We took the opportunity to find the Daruma Café, order cappuccino and use the impressively fast Wi-Fi. The ship’s Wi-Fi continues to be aggravating in its speed and connectivity. Mary Margaret was able to quickly update her Facebook page but only with the Galápagos Islands information; we are far from there!
Onward to our last stop, the Bavarian appearing village of Fruitillar, also situated on Lago Llanquihue.
The bus drove us around the charming village with its large chalets, confirming this was a resort area and soon to be filled with “summer people”. We were dropped off at the Colonial Museum, a collection of buildings preserving the lifestyle of the early German immigrants. We enjoyed strolling in the gardens and hiking to the top of the hill to tour the largest home, noted for its use of Alerce wood. The museum also gave a history of the earliest, native inhabitants, the Mapuchins.
Archaeological discoveries revealed early inhabitants around 13,000 years ago, after the Ice Age. The Mapuche people were hunter-gatherers living at the foothills of the Andes, slowly immigrating to the coastal areas. The arrival of the Spanish and introduction to Christianity allowed for advances in agricultural development, domestication of animals and new technologies involving pottery and textiles. There is a movement by the Mapuchins to regain control over native lands, another element in the social unrest here in Chile.
After our tour, we walked to the shore and strolled around the busy street. Today is the Feast of the Immaculate Conception and is being celebrated everywhere in this very Catholic country. We passed the Parroquia Inmaculada Concepcion where Mass was being held. The church was filled with parishioners of all ages so we were only able to take a quick peek inside.
We returned to the bus and found ourselves back in Puerto Montt, checking out the street craft market (needed pesos and not credit cards) before tendering back to the Oosterdam. While in the terminal awaiting the tender, Mary Margaret happened to see a vendor selling Lapis Lazuli, a stone endemic to the area. Earrings purchased (credit card!) and on to the tender. The skies partly cleared for our departure as we pulled anchor and began our cruise further south to Puerto Chacabuco, Patagonia.