Tuesday, October 10, 2023: Portland, England
A gloomy day greeted us the Rotterdam tied up in the Port of Portland, on the English Channel, located in the southwest of England in an area known as Dorset. It promised to be relatively cool and no rain. Most of the onshore excursions took passengers places we had already explored during our 2015 stay in England, so we opted for an hour’s drive though the countryside to the ruins of Corfe Castle.
Our guide, Susanna, gave us a geological lesson as we drove from the port along a sea wall known as Chesil Beach. This 18-mile long stretch of “shingle” was created by actions of the sea as it pushed loose rocks and stone onto the shore during storms. The rocks range in size from the tiniest pebble to large rocks depending on the location.
Chesil Beach connects the mainland to the island where the port is located and protects the village of Weymouth from storms. The height of the sea wall can reach up to 50-feet in places. Another interesting fact is that this area is also known as the Jurassic Coast due to the number of fossils found here, specifically ammonite. It has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The countryside proved just as charming. House upon house with thatched roofs, green fields with grazing horses, cows and sheep, rolling hills, narrow roads and small villages. Aside from the thatched roofs, it reminded us of Upstate New York. One surprising site was the image of King George III etched into the chalky soil on a hillside outside Weymouth, his favorite seaside resort.
We reached Corfe Village, located in a gap in the Purbeck Hills, and walked about 15 minutes from the parking area to the village center.
The walking path meandered along a river and climbed steeply to the village that sits below the castle ruins.
Corfe castle has a remarkable history. This is where the Saxon King Alfred the Great laid the foundation stone in the 9th century and where King Edward the Martyr was murdered by his stepmother in 987 as she wanted her son to step into the role of King. William the Conqueror made his way here in 1086 and significantly expanded the size of the castle.
Unfortunately, during the English Civil War, it was targeted for destruction as it was a Royalist stronghold. Much of the castle was blown up but several massive walls remain.
The castle location, high on a hill, overlooks much of the countryside, emphasizing its strategic placement.
Left on our own for 2 hours, we explored the castle, indulged in cream tea in an 18th century tea room and walked to the train station where we watched a steam locomotive pull in.
The village is charming with many of original 16th century structures preserved.
The National Trust shop has an original fireplace from the castle acting as a archway into one of the shop rooms. It was a very relaxing day, making our way through 1,000 years of history and back to the bus.
We returned to the bus, having learned more about the history of this scenic part of England. After reaching the Rotterdam, we were entertained by a local band and, on our way out of the port, received a cannon salute! Definitely a first for us!
A last, iconic view of the coastline revealed the chalky white cliffs as we sailed to France.
