May 5, 2025: First stop, Siracusa
The Le Dumont d’Urville is a beautifully designed and gorgeously appointed craft. Our stateroom was small but comfortable with eco-friendly bottled water in glass and our very own reusable water bottle to take with us on our excursions. Lounge and dining areas, a library, several bars and a small “infinite” pool on the back deck with fabulous views. The “Blue Eye” was a below the waterline bar with an observation window but, unfortunately, was only open after 9pm so not much to see. The French crew included several chefs providing exceptional meals.
Not a climbing wall or water slide to be seen!
Our first on shore excursion in Sicily was in Siracusa where we were bused a short distance to the Archaeological Park. This is the site of a massive Greek theater, created by hand chiseling through the limestone. We walked to an area just behind the theater, past several bronze statues created by a 21st century artist.
At the bottom of the former quarry, now lush garden, we stopped to observe the Ear of Dionysus, given that name by a paranoid Caravaggio who was convinced he was being followed and spied upon.
Walking into the huge opening, our guide began clapping his hands with the sound loudly echoing in this huge space. We were shown the chisel marks, marveling at the strength needed to create this enormous structure.
We walked around to the front of the theater, however could not go into the theater itself as the limestone, where uncovered, is fragile or at least should not be trampled on by thousands of tourists. The height of the theater is 82 feet and 213 feet wide. Leaving the theater, we walked near the quarries and a short distance to the arena.
The Romans arrived and built an arena in a separate area, known as the Latonia del Paradiso, used for gladiators and not actors. Acting was considered undignified by the Romans but revered by the Greeks.
After returning to the port, we walked into charming Ortigia, one of the earliest settlements on Sicily, and situated on an island that is only 1 square km in size. On Ortigia are the remnants of a Temple of Apollo, from 6th century BC, and Cathedral Square, the largest open space in all the island.
The Cathedral of Syracuse is located in the historic center, built over a Greek temple, part of which is found in the walls of the cathedral.
From the square we walked past vendors selling tasty treats, to Diana fountain depicting the myth of Diana, the nymph who turned Actaeon into a stag after he saw her au naturale.
While walking back to the ship, we encountered another water feature, considered sacred by Syracuseans: the Fountain of Arethusa. This looked more like a pond but is a freshwater spring on the edge of the sea. The legend of Arethusa, a nymph, relates her flight to Ortigia from the pursuit of Alpheus, a river god, where she prays to Artemis. He transformed her into a spring thereby escaping Alpheus. This natural spring sports exotic vegetation; papyrus is seen growing there.
We walked back to the ship, past the Fountain of Arethusa for a relaxing afternoon before dressing up for our first Gala evening.
