May 7, 2025
Our first view of Palermo’s beautiful Porta Nuova was at sunrise, promising a day full of light and adventure. It has been difficult to determine how to dress for the weather as reports indicate cooler days in the high 60s, low 70s, however the sun is strong, making it feel much warmer. Today it is just 62 degrees this morning and should be no warmer than 68 degrees. Breakfast consumed, sunscreen applied, hat and sunglasses at the ready as we leave the ship and head to a tour bus that will take us into the old city.
We rode along the Cordova Vittorio Emanuele, passing the beautiful Opera House and stopped at the old city market. Giorgio, our local guide explained that Palermo was a melting pot of cultures, predominately the Greeks, Romans, Arabs and Normans, however other cultures left their mark in terms of food. “It’s like a lasagna”: olives brought from the Phoenicians, citrus trees and sugar cane from the Moors (Arabs) and the prickly pear from Mexico brought by New World explorers in the 1500s.
Today is Wednesday or “fish day”, according to Giorgio. We passed a number of vendors as we made our way down the narrow isles listening to the continuing narration on food, plants and culture. There are hundreds of types of pasta in Italy and Palermo is known for Anelletti, a small, ring-shaped pasta (think Spaghetti Os), used in Anelletti al Forno. This dish is baked in an oven with a meat sauce and mozzarella cheese; comfort food!
The bus took us to another section and dropped us off where we walked to the Piazza Croce De Verpri and into a renovated, family-owned palace. Giorgio explained that due to heavy bombing during 1943 (WWII), many of the historic buildings were damaged or destroyed. The population did not want to rebuild in the old city, preferring to live in the newly built areas. The deterioration continued in the 1970s with increasing violence of the Mafia and drug use. In the 1990s, Mayor Orlando wanted to change Palermo’s image and focused on rebuilding the historic center. He began with the Opera House and offered partial payments to prior owners to renovate/rebuild their homes. Gradually, the historic center was rebuilt and became a tourist destination in 2015.
The Palazzo Valguarnera Gangi is a noble palace and is considered the most sumptuous private residence in Sicily. It is still owned by descendants of the Valguarnera family and retains original 17th and 18th century furnishings and artwork. We were greeted by a butler at the gate and led into a courtyard. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to take photographs inside the palazzo.
The Princess Gangi, a youthful looking 60ish woman led the tour through her home, explaining the ongoing renovation projects she and her husband have undertaken over the last few decades. She is from France and owns property there, “otherwise we would never have been able to afford the renovations”. Her husband’s grandfather, Benedetto Mantegna, Prince Gangi, had invited the famous German composer, Wagner, to visit. He accepted and composed some of the first bars of “Parsifal” in 1882. Other notable visitors were Queen Elizabeth, Edward II, prime ministers and royalty.
We were led through one amazing room after another, given information on the restoration of painted tile floors, silk wall hangings, ceiling paintings and unusual features such as the double ceiling in the “Mirror Room” with its enormous painted glass chandelier. The couple who had been hired for one of the restoration projects for 4 months, has now worked on nearly every project for the last 17 years. The Princess Gangi referred us to the movie “The Leopard” that was filmed here in 1961 when her mother-in-law was in residence, to give us an idea of the interior renovations.
We left the Palazzo after refreshments and a book purchase. It was truly an amazing experience and a highlight of the trip! Back to reality and one last stop to tour Santa Catarina Church, another feast for the eyes. Before reaching the stunning church, we had a bit of free time to explore, find a restroom then meet at the church entrance. There was a film crew at the Piazza Bellini creating a distraction but did not deter us from treats and a brief stop at a skinny, 3-story bookstore. Fascinating!
The interior is an example of Sicilian Baroque with ceramics, marble, lapis lazuli and gold leaf everywhere. This was the church and convent of the Dominican Nuns.
We walked around the cloister then out and through the Piazza Vigliena to the Piazza Pretoria, known as the “Square of Shame”. The name was given to the piazza due to the enormous fountain with its naked statues placed within sight of the nun’s dormitory. Oh my!
We were delivered back to the port in the early afternoon, relaxing in our cabin and then to attend the “Audipizzo Anti-Mafia”, a lecture on efforts to combat Mafia activity in Sicily. Surprisingly, the Mafia still exists but has grown weaker after the horrific assassinations of two judges in 1992. The public outcry led to a grassroots movement to end the Mafia’s stranglehold on the citizens. There continues to be “Pizzo” or extortion for payment of protection money. The young man giving the lecture is a member of the anti mafia group and boldly wore a T-shirt with “No More Mafia” on it. We were shocked to learn that the Mafia is still active here although to a lesser degree than in earlier times.
This is Italian Night and the chefs have prepared specialty meals for the passengers. Tauck is also celebrating its 100th birthday. There was a small celebration and cake in the lounge. The biggest surprise was the sighting of a whale during dinner! The captain announced a whale spout had been spotted on the port side, the side where we just happened to be dining. A few spouts were seen plus a glimpse of a flute. What a day!
