Majorelle Gardens and a Desert Excursion

Yves St. Laurent’s Marjorelle Gardens, Marrakesh

Sunday, March 20, 2022

Sunday was an exceptional day where we experienced the extremes of life in Morocco. We began our day in a horse drawn carriage, heading to the Majorelle Gardens and Yves Saint Laurent (YSL) Museum. Despite it being a bit nerve racking riding in traffic, it allowed us to appreciate Marrakesh at a much slower speed.

Our Horse Drawn Carriage Caravan Traveling on a 4-Lane!

We passed one of the oldest gardens in Marrakesh, not far from the hotel, which has been in existence since the 12th century. Many families, especially in the summer, will flock to the garden park in the evening and may spend time there until dawn, avoiding the heat of summer nights inside their homes. It’s a lively place with food and music. We were told there is a large pool inside the garden park, however we were not able to enter as it is only for Muslims.

Gardens Majorelle is a former estate of Jacques Majorelle, an artist, that was later rescued and renovated by YSL.

Walking to the Berber Museum in the Marjorelle Gardens

We wandered through this bamboo and cactus wonderland admiring the tall palm trees, water features and a koi pond.

A fascinating Berber museum is located in the gardens, displaying tools, jewelry, clothing and other items created by this desert tribe. The jewelry display was in a darkened room with tiny ”stars” overhead, making you feel as if you were in the desert. Sadly, no photos allowed in the museum.

Onward to the YSL museum. He was clearly influenced by the Berber culture as noted in his introduction of the Kaftan to the fashion world of the 1960s. YSL ”invented” the color Majorelle Blue and it has become a symbol of Marrakesh as a trim or door color against the reddish brown of nearly all buildings.

Late afternoon found us traveling in a 4X4 caravan to the Agafay Desert, stopping first at a Berber village for a tea ceremony.

Heading toward a Berber village in the Agafay Desert

We were greeted by Chieftain Mohamed, his wife, Debian and their 4 daughters—Fatimzola, Ibittisam, Farah and little Wiam. Chieftain Mohamed’s role in the village seems to be acting as the intermediary between other villagers and the “boss”. It was a humbling experience and one that we will always cherish. It was truly the real Morocco. The family may not have had much but the warmth they had for us was heartfelt.

We sat in the open courtyard, watching the traditional tea ceremony then indulging in Khobz (homemade bread) Beghrir (spongy pancakes), apricot preserves and honey. Delicious!

Tom wondering how he will stand after sitting

It is customary to bring gifts and receive gifts. Gina Pillsbury brought gifts for the girls that created lots of excitement. She also provided gifts the girls could distribute to us. A small box with a Hamsa necklace. Hamsa is the hand of Fatima, the daughter of Mohammed the Prophet. The number 5 is significant, representing the the 5 pillars of Islam. The eye in the center of the Hamsa is to protect the wearer from the evil eye.

Our second stop was a short ride to a fantasy land: the Inara Desert Camp. Here, one can go camping in a luxurious tent (“glamping”), ride a camel, get a henna tattoo, settle in with a hookah pipe and pretend you are Lawrence of Arabia. We were greeted by Gnawan musicians who managed to play throughout the evening as night fell.

The word, “Inara” in Arabic means ”light” and we would later discover it would live up to its name. Before our Berber style dinner in a jaima (tent), we were given the opportunity to dress like a Berber in a Burnoose (cape) and headscarf., provided by Tauck, ours to keep. Dressed and ready, we headed to our next form of transportation: a camel ride!

After our camel ride, we were given the opportunity to enjoy adult beverages and snacks, giving us time to decide if a henna tattoo or smoking a hookah pipe would be in order. Henna—yes! Hookah—no! We enjoyed what little daylight was left before dinner, wandering around the exotic camp and noting the difference in surroundings between Inara Desert Camp and the Berber Village: one is sheer fantasy and the other is real Moroccan life.

We were treated to a fire thrower demonstrating his talents with several implements but the most extraordinary experience came with the finale; outstanding!