Saturday, March 19, 2022

Saturday found us exploring Marrakesh’s Medina, beginning with a stop near the Koutoubia Mosque, a 12th century mosque and the symbol of Marrakesh. It is classically Almohad architecture is reflected in other mosques around the country that were built during the same dynasty.

Water bearers greeted us, hold overs from an earlier era where they carried water around the Medina to help vendors and residents keep hydrated. They walked around, jiggling the brass cups attached to their clothing and calling out to thirsty residents. Other vendors noticed our group and brought their wares for our inspection and purchase.

The Medina is bright, wide and clean and also allows motor vehicles, mostly motor bikes. We took a quick swirl thorough a produce souk, more like a neighborhood market as it was small and not touristy.

Before lunch, we toured the Bahia Palace, built by Si Moussa, the Grand Vizer to the Sultan in 1860-66 and named in honor of one of his wives. The wood work and marble throughout the palace was remarkable. Intricate designs, inlaid wood and marble; even the ceilings were stunningly decorated. This opulent collection of courtyards, hallways and rooms was intended to be the greatest palace in Morocco. It was difficult to capture the size and style of its exterior as the Palace is surrounded by gardens. Once we gained entrance, we were led through astounding architecture reflecting Islamic style.

The massive courtyard held rooms for his concubines.

Some of the rooms were off limits as they were filming another Indiana Jones movie. There were definitely people dressed in period costumes making it feel as if we time traveled. 

Back on the bus we headed into the Medina to attend a lecture at IRCOS on “healing” lotions, spices and other natural ingredients (and to purchase the magic), learning more about the scents and pharmacology of the natural world. Argan Oil is a unique product of Morocco as there is a small area where the Argan trees grow, producing nuts which are then processed into oil. Mary Margaret decided to purchase saffron after learning about a counterfeit saffron that uses red-dyed cornsilk and may be sold by unscrupulous vendors.

We walked from the herbalist to “My Kechmara” restaurant for another delicious lunch and where Tom got a standing ovation for pouring his mint tea in the Moroccan style. Go Tom! The real fun came after lunch when we headed to Djemaa El Fna Square, a large square in the center of the Medina, filled with a variety of vendors. Prior to our arrival, we walked to a Kaftan/embroidery shop where we were  given a presentation on Morocco’s influence on fashion. The Kaftan is similar to a robe or tunic and can be worn for informal or formal occasions, depending on the fabric. There were a variety of colors and fabrics making the selection quite difficult. Mary Margaret settled on an embroidered table cloth, small enough to fit into her ever burgeoning suitcase. 

We finally arrived at Djemaa El Fna Square, a short walk through a few alleys. It was all you can imagine: snake charmers, women grabbing your hand to give you a henna tattoo, vendors hawking their wares. Noisy but so much fun! 

We left there unscathed, heading back to the Four Seasons to settle in and plan our evening’s adventure as there were no planned events. We decided to explore more of the area on foot, before dinner. It gave us an opportunity to walk through the modern section of Marrakesh that reflected the French Protectorate period of 1912-1956 as seen in the European-style buildings of that era. The real reason we went on our walk was to locate a shopping area as Mary Margaret required a small suitcase to allow her to check another bag once we leave Morocco. Who knew that there were so many delightful tchotchkes here?! Once we finally found the massive mall, we were directed to a luggage store near the entrance where we met a delightful cashier who was excited to practice his English. ”I am so glad you are Americans! I’m tired of the Germans and the Dutch!”.

Purchase made and back to the luxurious Four Seasons Marrakesh for a relaxing dinner and nighttime stroll around the grounds.