Friday, March 18, 2022

Casablanca is the economic capital of Morocco with one of the busiest ports in Africa. It is a tourist destination with attractive beaches, sports facilities and parks. Away from the bustling city center is the Hassan II Mosque, with over half of this massive structure built over the waters of the Atlantic Ocean. It is the largest mosque in the country, perhaps in the world, with space for 25,000 worshippers inside and another 80,000 outside. The minaret is 689 feet high. This is the only mosque in Morocco open to non-Muslims and only at specific times. As it was Friday, it would be very crowded later in the day. It is a breathtakingly stunning building both in size and in decorative construction. It appears to rise out of the Atlantic Ocean, reaching to the heavens.

We walked through the massive mosque, learning more about rituals, separate spaces for women and men, the ablution area where a ritual cleansing occurs before prayer and making sure shoes were removed before entering this holy space. There are no furnishings in the Prayer Hall as prayer rugs are brought by worshippers and laid out on the floor. The ablution area is comprised of 65 fountains, each accommodating several worshippers at one time. Yassim gave a detailed demonstration of the ablution rite.

We left the sanctuary, negotiating our way out through the massive courtyard and boarding the bus. We continued our tour of Casablanca with a quick stop at the small but fascinating  Slaoui Foundation Museum, filled with posters of bygone eras, a collection of Berber jewelry, lots of kitsch. The museum reflects the travel experiences of the owners, Abderahman and Amina Slaoui who wanted to preserve the artistry and history of Morocco. 

Time for lunch and what a lunch it was! Rick’s Café—here’s looking at you, kid! This is actually a recreation of the Hollywood set but it didn’t take much to make us believe we would see Rick and Ilsa at the bar. Rick’s Café was the brainchild of Kathy Creeger, a former State Department employee, who decided to honor the legendary movie and create a tourist destination.

We wandered around the interior of the building, locating the gaming rooms on the second level. 

After enjoying a delicious lunch and taking lots of photos, it was back on the bus to travel a couple more hours to Marrakesh where we would check into the Four Seasons.

We were given additional information on Marrakesh during our bus ride, from our guide, Yassim. He told us that Marrakesh was founded by a Berber dynasty and the name means “Land of God”. Most inhabitants are joyful people with a laidback attitude “having a distinct accent”, most likely detected by native speakers. The city buildings are a red-brown color, reflecting its location in the desert environment of the foothills of the High Atlas Mountains. It is a very dry city but has a subterranean channel known as the subtract that brings water in from the mountains. This system was one of the many contributions of the Jews from Andalusia.

We enjoyed the 2.5 hour ride from Casablanca, watching the change in geography as we approached the High Atlas Mountains. We arrived at the gate to the grounds of the Four Season Marrakesh, checking in to a hotel that encompassed both worlds, past and present. What an incredibly lovely setting! The Four Seasons sits on 40 acres of gardens, shops, walkways, numerous buildings and pools.

We checked in and before settling into our room, we were given a choice of fragrances that would scent the air, making our stay uniquely Moroccan. We are officially spoiled!

Dinner was on our own and after wandering around a small area of the grounds, we made our way to Quattro for an Italian dinner. Tomorrow will be another exceptional day!

Thursday, March 17, 2022

Before leaving Fes and heading to Casablanca, we stopped in the Fes-Mellah, the Jewish Quarter. Muslims and Jews have lived together here for 2,000 yrs, a long history of “immigration, integration, coexistence and emigration”. Yassim gave a brief history of Jews in Morocco, noting that the Jews had a settlement as early as 70 AD. More Jews as well as Moors settled in Morocco after they were expelled from Spain during the Inquisition which then allowed greater tolerance for Jews. In general, Christians, Muslims and Jews coexist in Morocco. 

We started in the Jewish cemetery, outside the walled city, and continued to neighborhoods where Jewish homes are distinguished from Muslim homes by use of balconies. The current Jewish population is very small due to emigration to Israel. 

Next on our travel list was a tour of the American Fondouk, an animal hospital providing free care to the donkeys, mules and horses of Fes. This is a very impressive and much needed service to the people of the Fes Medina and surrounding area as these working animals are critical to their livelihoods.

We were given a tour of the facility that included an operating area, lab, pharmacy and ”kitchen”. Every stall was roomy and padded thin wood shavings. These animals sustain eye injuries from traveling in the Medina’s close alleys as well as injuries to their hides from head to hoof. Dogs and race horses are not treated here as dogs are not typically found in the city and those owning race horses can afford more specialized care.

After petting a cute donkey and viewing the imaging, laboratory and surgical services, it was back on the bus to Meknes, an 11th century city known for its lavish 17th century Spanish-Moorish architecture, made possible by Sultan Moulay Ismail, the Warrior King.

The ”Versailles of Morocco” was built during Sultan Moulay Ismail’s rule. It may be due to the he had 500 concubines and 800 children! Unfortunately, there are only a few buildings left (a stable large enough to feed 12,000 horses, watered by an aqueduct, for one) and we were unable to tour as renovations are occurring. Meknes is a UNESCO Heritage site and must complete improvements by 2023. The famed Bab Mansour Gate was undergoing renovation and was covered in scaffolding and shrouded in tarp.

A local guide took us through the Meknes Medina which seemed brighter and cleaner than Fes. It also allowed vehicles except for areas with narrow alleyways. The Meknes Medina is smaller but 3 of our travelers managed to get lost as they were distracted by vendor offerings as we wound our way through the maze.

Onward to the guide’s home, Ryad Bahia, behind a substantial, ornate door off one of the Medina alleyways. We explored this beautiful space with an open courtyard in the center (windows open into the interior of the house as no windows are on the side of the alleyway in Muslim homes). Our guests were found by the local police who are very familiar with Tauck guests and the itinerary.

Lunch over and on to the bus for the long ride to Casablanca. We watched the classic Bogart-Bergman film while munching on snacks and learned that it was totally filmed in Hollywood! We arrived at the Four Seasons Casablanca, settled in and made dinner reservations. We are totally spoiled!

We were forewarned that the area where the Four Seasons is located is ”dry”, meaning no alcohol is served anywhere within the boundaries of a resident Saudi Prince’s estate. This includes the hotel. The term ”resident” is loosely translated as he hasn’t visited this area in a decade! Fortunately, we purchased a few bottles of wine at Zouina Winery, making our stay quite relaxing! The hotel and grounds are exceptional as is the location on the beach. The weather has been cool during our trip so we did not linger on our beach walk. Dinner was at Bleu, a seafood restaurant located in the hotel with an exceptional wall mural consisting of shells—very upscale!

We’re excited about tomorrow’s schedule that includes lunch at the famed Rick’s Café! ”As Time Goes By”—it is going too fast!

Wednesday, March 16, 2022

We traveled to Volubilis, a city with a rich history that included it as the far western reach of the Roman Empire and, 400 years later, the location of the introduction of Islam by Moulay Idriss I in 788 AD. Before reaching Volubilis, we made a quick rest stop, ordering ”noose-noose” (coffee with milk) and had fun identifying famous historic figures in a huge wall painting.

Back on the bus and into the past, we explored Roman Volubilis’ ruins that included the Tingis Gate located at one end of the Decumanus maximus, opposite the Caracalla Arch, a part of an aqueduct, the Forum, the Basilica and glorious mosaic floors. Our guide told us that only about 30% of the ancient city has been uncovered by archeologists. 

Much of the area was destroyed by the massive Lisbon Earthquake in 1755. The restoration of this Roman City is ongoing, with attention to preserving the mosaics and rebuilding columns and walls using materials laying around the site. There is a small but interesting museum highlighting industry (olive products) and the impact the Romans had on this area.

We could see the Holy City of Moulay Idriss on the hillside—our next destination. The prophet Mohammed’s great grandson, Idriss I, is buried there. The present day importance of Moulay Idriss is that a Muslim pilgrim can make their mandatory religious duty, the Hajj, here if unable to travel to Mecca.

We left the ancient Roman ruins and rode to Moulay Idriss, with our full-sized bus driving into the village square and quickly departing once we were off. The bus could not stay there blocking traffic (cars, donkeys and pedestrians) hence the need for speed! Off the bus and managing to walk the Medina gauntlet of persistent vendors, we began our climb to our lunch destination.

On the way, we stopped in an area that had a bar across the alleyway, at about chest height. As noted in Fes, this was to prevent mules and donkeys from entering the Holy area where the body of Moulay Idriss I is buried. We could see the mosque at the end of the alley but we were not allowed to enter as we are not Muslim. 

Onward and upward to the Scorpion House for a delicious lunch and panoramic view of Moulay Idriss. Our hosts greeted us with a delicious strawberry drink while we took in the view on the balcony.

While awaiting our lunch, we were given the opportunity to explore the house from top to bottom, admiring both inside and outside views. 

We gathered for lunch and noshed on traditional Moroccan dishes that included couscous with tagine, pastilla, chermoula, zaalouk salad, grilled sardines, olives, etc., ending with mint tea, orange cake and fruit. Marvelous!

Heading back to Fes for our last night, our guide rescheduled our tour of Fes-Mellah or the Jewish Quarter, for the following day as it started to rain and wasn’t going to let up. Back at the Hotel Sahrai, we enjoyed another delicious dinner and conversation with fellow travelers. Off to Meknes and Casablanca on St. Patrick’s Day!

Random photos from today’s experience:

March 15, 2022

Today we explored the Fes Medina, making our way through the maze of this ancient city, with the help of 2 guides, Oumaima and her  »state sponsored » helper. Prior to entering through the Blue Gate, we detoured to a ceramics center where we were given a tour, beginning with an explanation of why Fes ceramics are unique. It begins with the clay, a gray, tough substance that has to be kneaded to rid it of stones and air pockets. We watched an artisan create a mini tagine dish on a potter’s wheel, impressive in the precision he demonstrated when creating the bottom dish and then the top that fit perfectly over it.

We were led to the 2nd firing kiln as the first firing oven is outside the shop and uses olive oil remnants to heat the kiln to 1500 degrees. This is amazing as the kiln is from the 9th century! The 2nd firing kiln is used after the design is painted and a coating applied. We watched as artisans painted designs on the first fired items and learned about the three customary designs, all from the 9th century. There is Berber which is identified by use of flowers and insects. Jewish designs use the Star of David. Lastly, Arabic uses asymmetric lines to create complicated patterns. Fes is most famous for the blue color used on most items.  « Fes Blue » is created by mixing minerals such as cobalt, magnesium and copper.

The mosaic pieces are created as they were in the 9th century, by hammering the fired clay into a desired shape. The pieces are then applied to the article, face down and unseen by the artisan as it is created. Sort of like putting together a jigsaw puzzle blindfolded! Only when the article, such as the large dish above, is finished will the artisan flip it over. It is no surprise that it takes many years to be the artisan in charge!

What is a tour without a shopping opportunity? We were led into an amazing shop filled from floor to ceiling with colorful vases, serving platters, assorted tagine dishes and on and on.

Purchase made and off we trekked to join 4 other travelers on the Culinary Tour. Our delightful guide, Oumaima, and her government sidekick led us through the sights, smells and tastes of the Fes Medina. We needed both guides as there are estimated to be 9,000 alleyways! Our first stop was the “dessert” vendor, sampling both new and familiar treats. We had tried chebakia when in Rabat and now had the opportunity to sample brioua, a very similar taste and just as delicious. With calls of “baleck blaleck” we moved out of the way to allow donkeys to pass, loaded down with needed products. Donkeys and mules are the “Amazon delivery vehicles” used in the Medina as no motor vehicles are allowed. Some of the alleys are so narrow that an umbrella cannot be opened!

Onward to the bread vendor where Oumaima described the 4 most popular breads consumed by Moroccans: Mlaoui, Harsha (barley bread) Mkhamer and Baghrir. These are consumed as is or embellished with various toppings (goat cheese and honey; sometimes black olives and onions).

We continued on, stepping to the side for those carrying large trays of unbaked bread to the public ovens, men with tanned leather skins piled high on their heads, vendors calling out to us (Tom is either “John Wayne” or “Clint Eastwood”). We tasted figs stuffed with walnuts and learned about the role of the USA in saving the Medjool dates. Oumaima told us that an infestation was killing the precious Medjool date trees in Morocco so a decision was made to send 9 trees to the U.S., specifically California, to be spared and, hopefully, reproduce. This was an extremely successful venture with Medjool trees flourishing in their new location. Soon, trees were exported back to Morocco and are thriving to this day. These are the premier dates and most expensive.

The olive vendor had a variety of olives to sample as did the nougat vendor. In the Butcher Quarter, we saw caged chickens and a camel head as we strolled towards the only Honey Quarter in the Islamic world. There we sampled at least 10 different varieties of honey with the rarest being Arbutus unedo, more commonly known as the Strawberry Tree. 

The three major cultures influencing Moroccan cuisine are the Berbers (couscous), Jewish Moors (pickling, combining sweet and savory flavors) and the French (pastries, wine and coffee). All this culinary history was present in our walk through the Medina. We were entertained by a vendor creating warqa pastry, similar to phyllo dough, used in making Pastilla. This dish is a sweet and savory combination of slow cooked meat, spices, ground almonds, cinnamon and powdered sugar. The warqa takes mere seconds to cook after its liquid form is spread over a large hot plate. Oumaima informed us that Moroccans are very particular about the quality of warqa; a vendor may lose business if the warqa is too thick or not cooked to perfection.

We ventured back out into the main alleyway and briefly stepped back in time to the 9th century to view the community oven. It was located in a narrow windowless room behind a vendor’s space. There were large racks with trays awaiting the delivery of unbaked goods. The oven was not yet ready to bake the daily bread but gave us a sense of how people manage to live in this modern/ancient place. Oumaima told us her widowed mother sends bread dough out to the community oven for baking via carrier as a single woman is not allowed to walk alone without a male escort. We noticed a number of men carrying racks of bread dough either on their heads or in front of their bodies, heading to the community oven.

Our last stop on the Culinary Tour, before lunch (!), was the Bissara vendor. Bissara is a delicious soup made from broad beans (fava beans) and spices. This vendor is very popular during cold weather as confirmed by his nearly empty kettle. We sat in the small space behind the stove and enjoyed a warming cup of soup. Delish!

We learned that the narrow alleyways hide large spaces behind their walls. Oumaima led us through an ornate door to the Palais Amani, a 17th century home that was renovated and turned into a hotel in 2006. It had a large courtyard that was surrounded on each side by the 2 stories high interior building. We joined the others in our group from their Artists Tour, settling in for an interesting lecture and lunch. We had Professor Fatima speak with us about life in Morocco and current events from a woman’s perspective. It was a lively discussion and revealed the difference between Moroccan culture and other Islamic countries.

We left the Palais Amani well sated and knowing more about Moroccan history and culture. As we traveled through the Medina, we came upon a board across the alleyway at chest height. Oumaima explained we were entering a sacred place (zawiya). Moulay Idriss II founded Fes in 808 AD and is buried here, in the Medina. If the Muslim religion had saints, he would be considered the Patron Saint of Fes. The board acts as a barrier, preventing donkeys and mules from entering the zawiya. We noticed a table placed in front of an elaborate door with colorful offerings the faithful will bring into the shrine. Non-muslims are not allowed inside, however it is considered beneficial for strangers to walk through this area.

Our last stop before heading back to the Hotel Sahrai was a fragrant trip to the Tannery Quarter, a UNESCO Heritage Site, where we viewed the leather tanning process as it was performed in the 9th century. The skins of camels, sheep, cows, goats and “baby camels” are processed in baths of limestone, salt, vinegar, pigeon excrement and water for 7 days. After stomping on the skins and shaving off the hair, they are then transferred to a huge “washing machine” that reminded us of a huge wine barrel. The skins are then placed in a dyeing vat for 10 days before they are again washed. The drying process takes place in the mountains as the air is much drier than in the city. Unfortunately, we did not see the colorful vats of dye as the tannery had been closed for 2 years due to COVID. It had just returned to processing skins on February 7 when Morocco opened the country, allowing “business as usual”. 

The day was not quite over as we had a brief stop at the hotel to prepare ourselves for a return to the outer reaches of the Medina to dine at the Palais Faraj. This private, 19th century palace is known for its Moorish/Andalusian architecture and had been renovated a few years ago by the owners. 

During dinner, we were serenaded by a traditional Moroccan duo and were treated to sunset views high over the Medina. We are enamored with this country!

March 14, 2022

Monday found us traveling similar routes in Rabat but still extraordinary as our guide took us on slightly different routes. Yassim encouraged us to  »look down » both to avoid tripping and to notice the surface we were walking on. The small smooth stones created a pattern with a slightly bumpy surface. This caused grain or other small foodstuffs to intermittently fall from wagons as they were pushed through the streets, providing food for birds. We ended up at the Ouadaya Café, where we had enjoyed our first mint tea with Stephen. It was a refreshing and tasty surprise.

After indulging in sweets and a glass of Moroccan whiskey (mint tea), we were driven to the actual “Tour Hassan” or Hassan’s Tower and the Mausoleum of Mohammed V. Unfortunately, we were unable to tour the mausoleum due to renovations. As we were snapping photos of the guards on horseback, 7 black limos pulled up and out came a delegation of men robed in finery with their women well behind (as life should be according to Tom!). We later learned this group was a delegation from an economic conference of African Nations.

The Hassan Tower was built in the 12th century and is actually the minaret of a never completed great mosque. It rises 140 feet above 348 unfinished columns. The enormous mosque had an area of 600 x 456 feet and was intended to be the largest mosque in the Muslim world. Sadly, al-Mansur, the 3rd Caliph, died before completion and all construction stopped. Today, the Mauseoleum of Mohammed V is located within the walls of this complex. He was the king who fought for Morrocan independence in the mid-20th century and remains revered.

Photo op over, we returned to the bus and drove out of Rabat passing through Dar-al-Makhzhen, the Royal Palace and residence of King Mohammed VI. We were only able to glimpse buildings, guards and gardens, marveling at the architecture. The bus made a quick stop, allowing us to take photos of the new opera house, reminding us a bit of the Sydney Opera House in that it had a unique shape.

We headed to the wine region of Meknes, about an hour away from Rabat. How strange to have a winery in Morocco! Muslims are forbidden to drink any alcohol so we were surprised at our good fortune. Our winery guide, Mohammed, explained the production is really for non-Muslim consumption. He said he is the target of much ridicule from his family and friends for working at the winery “especially with my name, Mohammed, the Prophet!” He states Muslims can get arrested if they are found drinking or buying alcohol; he’s been arrested twice and had to pay a fine. We guess he’s safe behind the vineyard doors!

After the generous wine tasting and delicious lunch, it was back on the bus, stopping at an overlook above Fes for our first view of the world’s largest ancient Medina. Although the alleyways could not be viewed, the number of buildings seemingly lumped together gave us a preview of tomorrow’s adventure. 

The exotic overview was followed by our check in to the luxurious, modern Hotel Sahrai.

As our time was our own after check-in, Mary Margaret scheduled a Hammam, or ritual bath, as late as possible so the relaxing effects would allow for a full night’s sleep. After enjoying a light dinner and cocktails in the Jungle “social club”, it was on to the spa where she was stripped down, thrown into a steam room until she was parboiled, then led to a room with a marble slab where she was instructed to lay face down. She described the “ritual bath” as being scrubbed with black soap and scrubby sponge, peeling away at least a layer of skin. A fragrant oil was liberally applied then, sliding (literally) off the table and into a robe, she was led to a reclining lounge where she nearly fell asleep. Back to reality, to her clothes and to our room where she enjoyed a most relaxing sleep!

Random photos from our time in Rabat:

March 12, 2022: afternoon arrival in Chefchaouen

We learned that industries worldwide look to the entity “Pantone” that standardizes color and identifies a “Color of the Year”. In 2022, the color is “Very Peri” a periwinkle blue described by Pantone as “creating a spritely, joyous attitude”. That is exactly what we experienced when we crept our way from a narrow mountain road into the “Very Peri” village of Chefchaouen, located in the Rif Mountains. It is typical for Moroccan cities and villages to paint their buildings using the same color palate. In this instance, despite the overcast appearance in the late afternoon, the village shone! Gorgeous! 

It looked like rain might make an appearance so, after climbing 120+ steps to the Dar Jasmine Hotel and settling into our room named “the Hanoi”, we explored the delightful Medina. It was mostly surrounded by a centuries old wall and had the prerequisite narrow, winding alleyways with accompanying vendors, patrons and peacocks.

We seemed to descend into more vibrant periwinkle tunnels, noticing decorative doors vying for our attention. We finally reached a large square filled with people of all ages, gathering together to share a meal and companionship. 

Mary Margaret immediately found a cape in an untraditional shop and, with Rhonda’s help, managed to pay a fair price. Purchases made it was now time to find our recommended restaurant located in the labyrinth of the Mediana.

We walked back into the alleyways using iPhones to locate the restaurant, tucked away in the periwinkle maze. Rounding a corner, we were nearly run over by goats!

Restaurant Bab Ssour was eventually located and definitely worth the effort. We were rewarded with an amazingly delicious traditional Moroccan meal consisting of 3 different Tagines, Khobz (bread) and Pastilla (a phyllo-like dough stuffed with savory meat, spices and ground almonds). Finding this gem was worth the time required, making this a memorable evening. 

Before we left this beautiful village on Sunday morning, we had a breakfast feast with a view. We couldn’t return to the Medina as we were about 4 hours from Rabat and had to prepare ourselves prior to joining our “official” tour.

On our way back to Rabat, Stephen took the road less traveled, through the Rif Mountains, heading towards the coast, where we could view more than the 4 lane highway. As we made our way through the lush mountain valleys and over to Sidi Allal Tazi, we passed wagon after wagon pulled by mules or horses, filled with fodder for farm animals.

Each village seemed to have something unique to offer as we drove by. Soon we were back in Rabat, repacking to join our tour group. Our official start to the Tauck Tour would begin with a ”Meet and Greet” and end with another delicious meal. 

It was difficult to say goodbye to Stephen and Rhonda as they were terrific hosts. We had the opportunity to see them once more before our tour started as we left a load of laundry in their dryer! Fortunately, their apartment is only a 20 minute drive from the La Tour Hassan Hotel. Once our laundry was delivered, it was a quick hug and wave to begin our 9-day adventure. We could only hope it would be as fascinating!

We had signed up for the “Magic of Morocco” tour with a regular-sized tour group and were delighted to find our group numbered 11 hardy travelers instead of 30! People are still hesitant to travel and this gave us a huge advantage. After introductions were made, our delightful tour guide, Gina Pillsbury, gave us a packet outlining our tour schedule as well as helpful hints (language, food, souvenirs) and expectations on what to do and in what city. We’re on our way!

March 12, 2022: Tétouan

From Tangier we headed to Stephen O’Dowd’s old Peace Corp stomping grounds, Tétouan, where the Rif Mountains meet the Mediterranean.

Mary Margaret and her mother traveled to see Stephen for 10 days in March of 1983. It was fun time traveling back to see things that have changed and those that have remained the same. Dale Roberts, a family friend, also spent time here recently as a resident artist at Green Olive Arts. Before heading into the Medina, we stopped by Green Olive Arts to see Dale’s painting and to learn more about the programs offered to international and local artists. 

We headed out, past the large square that included the Palace (King Mohammad VI visits once a year) and into the Medina.

It wasn’t long before we heard Moroccan Arabic shouts of greeting, being stopped every few meters to talk to Stephen. So fun! Fortunately, Rhonda was able to assure Mary Margaret that he wasn’t bartering away her future!

Onward to the Berber women selling textiles and trying to make Mary Margaret look like a “mountain woman”.

We stopped into a small but informative museum about Moroccan history, led by a tour guide who was able to play photographer. We felt the need for a quick bite before heading to our last destination, Chefchaouen, stopping in a sandwich shop Stephen had frequented as a young Peace Corp Volunteer. We left Tétouan in the late afternoon, taking new memories along with us.

Tétouan brought back so many memories yet it was clear there had been significant progress over the last 39 years. It retains the flavor of a genuine Arab/Berber city, lacking the hustle and bustle of Euro tourists. It is definitely a city worth visiting again if we are fortunate enough to do so while Stephen and Rhonda are here.

This photograph is of Old Tétouan, since demolished in a futile effort at urban renewal. Stephen remembers this location as an energetic, charming center with a bit of danger thrown in during an uprising. It is his story to tell.

Friday, March 11, 2022 Tangier

Rhonda had to work today but will be able to join us in Tangier after taking the high speed train from Rabat. Until then, Stephen graciously accepted his role as private tour guide, driving us 3 hours to Tangier where he had reserved rooms at a Mimi Calape Hotel. It looked a little dodgy from the outside but when walking through the door, we were stunned!

An oasis of tranquility and a rival to the garden of Eden. Perhaps an exaggeration but what an eclectic hotel! We climbed curving stone steps through ferns and palm trees upward to the main house. We were ushered in for tea despite our rooms being ready. This is very traditional, according to Moroccan hospitality; making the thirsty tourists relax.

Both rooms were charming with modern and traditional art decorating the walls, antique silver candelabra and a crystal chandelier in the bathroom (thankfully not over the very large claw foot tub!).

After we settled in, we began our exploration, briefly stopping by the American Legation to check on tour and hours. As it was going to be raining later, Stephen decided we should cover any outside walking and save the Legation for last. 

We walked to the newly renovated museum honoring Ibn Battouta, the “Marco Polo” of the Arab world. He was born in 1304 AD in Tangier and, after reaching 21, decided to travel to Mecca. On the way, he was influenced by the people he met and the “discoveries” he experienced. By the time he died at 73, back in Tangier, he had traveled over 100,000 kilometers!

He wrote of his experiences but this is the first we’ve ever heard of him. Amazing!

Onward through the Medina, twisting and winding our way with a lone distraction of buying the legendary “Nougat” (is a kilo enough?). Sweets purchased, we made our way down to the American Legation for a tour of this historic landmark. 

The Legation is America’s oldest diplomatic property, given by Morocco in 1777 in recognition of American independence. It is now known as Talim, the Tangier American Legation Institute for Moroccan Studies, comprised of a museum outlining the history of Moroccan-American diplomatic and cultural relations. It is home to both a library and an Arabic literacy program for women of the Medina. It is the only U.S Historic Landmark overseas.

We wandered through historic rooms, finding ourselves in an area dedicated to Paul Bowles. He was a writer, composer and resident of Tangier, commissioned by the Library of Congress to record traditional Moroccan music. In 1959, he traveled the country, recording 250 selections of different types of music which are now housed in the Library of Congress. We were able to listen to a few selections during our tour.

Late afternoon found us at Café Centrale for a light snack (not!) in the old “Beatnik” section of Tangier.

The rain just started so we headed back to the Mimi Calpe to await Rhonda’s arrival on the high speed train and to make our evening plans.

Unfortunately, Rhonda missed the first train but that worked to our advantage as we were full from our afternoon snack. Stephen hailed a taxi and retrieved her from the train station, picking us up to head a short distance away for dinner at Chiringuito, an upscale restaurant with a Mediterranean flair. One of the downsides of restaurant ambiance is that smoking is allowed. We managed to secure a table away from smokers, enjoying our conversation and meal. We decided to walk back to the hotel as the rain ended and we needed to walk off today’s indulgences. Another adventure awaits us tomorrow.

March 9-10, 2022

We successfully arrived in Rabat, Morocco on Wednesday evening, hustling through Paris and Casablanca before being driven to Stephen O’Dowd and Rhonda Brown’s abode, located in a modern apartment complex not far from the embassy.

After a delicious dinner of roasted lamb, Turkish pilaf, endive, Moroccan wine and sticky toffee pudding (a little bit of Scotland in Morocco), we slept until 10am the next morning! Realizing this is actually 4am in NC, it was almost our usual start to the day. Unfortunately, Rhonda had to work but Stephen played tour guide and took us to Rabat sites not included on our Tauck Tour.

Our first stop was the impressive fortress/palace Chellah, built over Phoenician and Roman ruins. We were greeted by a drummer in front of an impressive gate but not allowed to enter the grounds. Fortunately, a guide led us around the perimeter, giving us a history lesson and leading us to viewing areas for photo ops. He enjoyed conversing with Stephen in Moroccan Arabic. That skill certainly has given us an advantage, especially in the Medina.

We drove into the Rabat’s Medina (old city), stopping for mint tea and pastries before climbing to the Platform du Sémaphore (overlook), watching surfers and beach goers (no bathing suits but that doesn’t mean nude! That means fully covered!).

Stephen was disappointed the Oudaïa Gardens remained closed for renovation, however that did not mean we were affected as there was so much more for us to explore. We wandered through the Medina where a bartering contest happened over 2 pair of earrings. Mary Margaret now has her authentic Berber earrings as a reminder of our day in Rabat.

We stopped at a chebakia stand, watching the creation of this delicacy and sampling its delicious sweet combination of crunch and crumble. Stephen also introduced us to Moroccan churros we found equally delicious. Fortunately for us, he purchased a nice bag of both the chebakia and the churros. Yum!

The day was nearly over but one last stop for refreshment at The Dhow, on the Bou Regreg River before heading back to greet Rhonda after her day at work. 

Another delicious meal and lively conversation completed our first full day exploring the capital of Morocco. Stephen laid out our plans for the next 2 days: pack a small bag for a road trip to Northern Morocco where we’ll explore Tangier, Tétouan and Chefchaouen. This plan fits well into our adventure as we will not have the opportunity to see places in Northern Morocco on our Tauck Tour.

We decided to take advantage of Mary Margaret’s brother’s Moroccan assignment adding a formal tour with Tauck Travel. Prior to joining Tauck’s “Magic of Morocco” tour on March 13, we will be escorted around the old city of Rabat before traveling north to Tangier, Tetouan and Chefchaouen, cities not included in the Tauck Tour.

This adventure has had a bit of a rough beginning, perhaps complicated by the remnants of COVID-19 protocols as countries began to tentatively open up to tourists. Coordinating flights had been especially challenging with two notices that Air France had no connecting flights to Casablanca on Wednesday, 3/9, our original departure date. Deciding to travel a day earlier, all seemed fine until 3 days before our Wilmington departure. Tom’s attention to detail found that our 3/8 4:16pm Delta flight was eliminated and we were not notified. A semi-hysterical call was placed to Air France (Delta’s partner) and an earlier flight on 3/8 was identified requiring a 7-hour lay over in Atlanta. There was no other choice so we booked it. We completed our necessary forms for entry into Morocco and scheduled our PCR (COVID test) following Mary Margaret’s rescheduled mani/pedi. The good news: our PCR tests were negative. The bad news: the mani/pedi was apparently not rescheduled in the salon’s computer system. What else can go wrong? When the 24-hour check-in window opened, we were not allowed to check in. All the information was correct, however as this was an international flight, we had to be checked in at the airport, presenting all of our documents.

We are now awaiting the boarding call and all (fingers crossed) seems to be moving forward. We’re not even going to ask ourselves, “what can possibly go wrong now?”.