December 5, 2022, Monday: Coquimbo, Chile

The Oosterdam cruised 2 days before arriving in the port of Coquimbo, our first stop in Chile. It was an overcast day, or at least that is what it appeared. What we didn’t know is that this is the typical weather on the coast of Chile caused by the warm land temperature and the cold Humboldt current cooling the air. The port was much smaller than Callao, Lima’s largest, port, but busy loading and unloading container ships and transport vehicles.

We joined a tour that will take us to the 3 major areas of interest in this region: the coastal resort town of La Herradura with its neighbor, La Serena; Vicuña, in the the agricultural Elqui Valley and birthplace of the poet, Gabriela Mistral; and Capel Vineyards, the largest producer of Pisco in the country. Our guide is the ever energetic, Jorge, who has a master’s degree in astronomy and is a former teacher. He describes this area as “the land of sun, stars and Pisco!”

Our first stop was a photo opportunity of the lovely (but overcast) Guayacan Bay in La Herradura, filled with small boats and surrounded by lovely homes. This busy fishing bay had an interesting series of sculptures between the road and the beach area. Back on the bus, we headed to La Serena, the 2nd oldest city in Chile and known for it’s beaches and restaurants as well as being a haven for artists as we observed gorgeous murals on building walls throughout the city.

We drove past the lighthouse, the symbol of La Serena and did not stop but continued onward to the quaint village of Vicuña, nestled in the Elqui Valley. 

Our hour and a half drive took us up curving roads, past the Andean village of El Molle where a large dam formed the Puclaro Reservoir allowing for better regulation of water flow for irrigation and population use. We passed copper mines, young avocado trees protected by wind screens, papaya and citrus groves, to the foot of the pre-Andes Mountains.

Jorge pointed out an observatory at the very top of one of the mountains, noting that this region has wonderfully clear skies with low humidity making stargazing pristine. He mentioned there are 3 observatories in this area: Gemini South, Cerro Tolo and the Observatory del Pangue that is open to the public. Unfortunately, no observatory tour was offered on this excursion but it was exciting to realize we were driving in the valley where new celestial discoveries are being made on a regular basis.

The sun came out as we drove from the coast providing exceptional views of the Elqui River Valley. This valley is very narrow, only 6 miles wide, and near the Atacama Desert, one of the driest places on Earth. We only noted reddish brown soil and a few scrubby shrubs on the hills but the valley was lush with vegetation. As we entered Vicūna Village, it was clear that Vicuña grew and prospered from the building of the observatories as well as the produce grown in this fertile valley.

We stopped at the Plaza Gabriela Mistral for a few minutes to learn more about the Nobel Prize winning poet. The Plaza is beautiful with plenty of shade-covered benches, sculptures from the ancient remains of the pepper tree and more murals. 

Mary Margaret managed to snap a photo of a statue of Gabriela Mistral sitting on a bench, book ended by two live Santa’s elves. School is approaching year’s end and groups of students were walking around the park.

We left Vicūna and took a short ride to the Capel Vineyard where we took yet another tour of the production of the famous distilled wine, Pisco. They do not produce wine here, only Pisco.

Fortunately for us, after walking through the grounds and production area, we received small samples of Pisco sours in either mango or lemon juice. No shots burning our throats here!

Back on the bus and to the Restaurant Halley where we had too much food! The first course was empanadas that our only Chilean-American passenger in our group exclaimed was the best she’s ever had (or made). She tracked down the chef and talked him into giving her the recipe and then gave it to Mary Margaret. The second course was a tender cut of beef and rice, sampled but not entirely consumed.

We rolled back onto the bus and on to La Serena where we had a short shopping experience before being delivered back to the Port of Coquimbo. The beach town was overcast as when we had left it hours ago and much cooler. We passed a surprising sight: a large mosque in this very Catholic country. Obviously a tolerant population.

It is amazing that within a few miles and several feet of elevation, there is definitely clearer skies and warmer temperatures. Truly a wonderful introduction to Chile.

This is the end of the first leg of our cruise, aptly named “17-Day Panama Canal and Inca Discovery Voyage”. There will be more touring for us when we reach our next port but a demanding working day for the Oosterdam crew as nearly half the passengers will leave the ship. While this happens and we are on our tour, new passengers will board the Oosterdam to continue along Chile’s coast, around Cape Horn ending in Buenos Aires. We’re excited to begin our second leg of this voyage, learning more about South America.

December 2, 2022, Friday

We arrived at our 2nd Peruvian location near San Martin and joined a tour that took us into a fertile valley at the foot of the Andes Mountains. Rolando, our guide, is from the Ica Valley and was able to fully describe the arid conditions and the importance of the Andes Mountains to the area.

It never rains in the San Martin area. Never. The water the population relies upon is from the Andes Mountains where the rains turn into rivers and also replenish the underground water table. On the surface there was no inkling of water aside from the ocean. Everything in the port was covered with a fine dust, reminding us of Cairo, Egypt. The only colors we saw were the reddish sand of ground volcanic soil and the yellow sand from the ancient sea floor. 

As early as 9,000 years ago, the Paracas tribe migrated here for the ocean fishing and to bury their dead. There have been multiple burial sites uncovered here. There have been mummified bodies discovered, decorated with fabric and ornaments. Rolondo stated that it appears only the elite of the tribe were buried in this area. Not much is known of the Paracas, however they used similar techniques in reshaping the heads of newborns of the elite class, as in ancient Egypt.

We rode about 1 1/2 hours to the Ica Valley, known for its produce (papaya, mango, oranges, lemons and asparagus) and to the first of 2 wineries we visited. On the way there, we passed desolate areas of desert with some population although it was difficult to believe people would be able to survive in these conditions. The “houses” were poorly constructed with cinderblock, tarp, sheet metal and bamboo.

Dogs were roaming freely about town but no cats. “Cats are considered the devil here”. We could relate to that as one of our cats, Gingersnap, was certainly devilish! The dogs “guard the houses while the people are away working”. Most work is in the fields. 

We crossed a bridge over the Ica River, noting it appeared to be more of a stream than a river. Rolondo reminded us that this is summer in the southern hemisphere, waiting for the rainy season to begin in December.

Our tour group finally reached a lush Garden of Eden at the Tacama Winery. They have been in the Ica Valley for 250 years and clearly are a large employer. The contrast between the dry, dusty towns and the well manicured grounds of the estate were striking. A small number of community members, however, were clearly benefitting by wine production in jobs offered and housing. 

In addition to white, rosé and red wine, they make a distilled wine called Pisco. We toured the winery and beautiful grounds, participating in a wine tasting.

After enjoying our wine samples, we continued to explore the estate, passing a family church to a small “tower” we entered and climbed to the top to enjoy the panoramic view of the vineyard and the Andes Mountains. It was easy to forget there was abject poverty outside the estate.

We left the beautiful Tacoma Winery and traveled on the the next vineyard, Destileria la Caravedo, specializing in Pisco. In fact, they do not produce any wine. Walking off the bus, we were given a canned drink of what Mary Margaret thought was lemonade but was “spiked” with 9% Pisco! We strolled along passing by a modern looking building where the majority of distilling and aging takes place.

Walking away from the building, across a lawn and up 25 steps, we gathered in a circular, covered space where grapes are crushed the old fashion way; with your feet. The juice would channel into a lower area and the skins would be crushed in a massive wooden press. The distilling process begins with the heat from flame under these huge stone barrels. After a period of time, the Pisco is captured and bottled. This ancient process is done in very small batches and is most likely a ceremonial event. The real action happens at the new building. 

We left the ceremonial production area and walked to the modern distillery. Once inside, we walked through alleys of enormous stainless steel silos and sampled 5 Pisco varieties, each being a bit smoother than the previous taste. Distilled Pisco is 86-proof hence the small, ounce-size samples. 

A highlight of the Destileria la Caravedo winery was the horse show that occurred during our lunch. The small horse moved so elegantly it nearly hypnotized us (or maybe it was the 5 samples of Pisco?)

We bade farewell and fell into our bus seats for the long drive back to the port. We will have 2 sea days before reaching Coquimbo, Chile where we will explore a coastal resort area before climbing into higher altitudes to the Elqui Valley. Time to relax!

November 27-30, 2022

Our first glimpse of the archipelago from the air was of a smaller of the 110 islands making up the Galapagos. Out of the 17 large islands, only four are inhabited: Isabella, Floreana, Santa Cruz and San Cristobal. Volcanic and uninhabited, surrounded by blue and turquoise waters, the view was still a thrill as we headed for landing on Baltra Island.

Our first introduction to wildlife was being greeted by an iguana at the airport, just outside the walkway, totally uninterested in us humans! We met our guide, Fredrico, and boarded a bus to the ferry landing. It appeared the only life on this island were cacti, popping up through the volcanic soil. Although there were leafless, dead-looking trees, they were merely dormant, waiting for the rains. 

We gathered at the ferry landing, spotting a baby sea lion sleeping near the ramp, waiting for mom. Mary Margaret caught a glimpse of a “Darwin’s Finch” perched at the top of the ramp, her first view of the famous, tiny birds.The ferry ride across the Canal de Itabaca was a short, 3-minute ride to Santa Cruz Island where we met our driver and loaded ourselves into a small, 8 person van to begin our amazing adventure.

Fredrico shared information about the area and the stark differences in the islands. The Galapagos were formed by volcanic activity and sit on the “Galápagos Fracture Zone” where 2 tectonic plates meet: the Nazca and the Cocos. Isabella Island is the largest in the group and has 6 active shield volcanoes. Santa Cruz has a larger population than Isabella (20,000 as compared to 150) and is very lush with plant life. The van drove us on a 2-lane road with little traffic as we headed to our first destination: El Chato Ranch located in the Highlands.

This is more of a Giant Tortoise reserve than a ranch except for the fact we did see cows behind barbed wire fencing. Our first glimpse of these massive creatures was spotting one in a pasture. It appeared to be a moving boulder. The closer we drove to the parking area, the more tortoises we saw. Overwhelming! They are just “there”, eating grass, trundling along, most avoiding each other but it is approaching mating season so that very well may change!

The El Chato Ranch had an open air restaurant where we ate lunch before walking along a trail through the reserve. We watched “Darwin’s Finches” flitting between tables and hopping on the floors. So much easier than searching for food in their normal habitat!

After our very late lunch, we hiked around the reserve, gawking at these huge creatures. Fredrico also gave us information on the plants, noting the “sunflower tree” towering over us was of the same family as the sunflower plant in our gardens. There is just something about the Galapagos that makes living things exaggerate themselves! We descended into a lava tunnel and out into more “tortoise land”.

A few of these giant Testudinidae were enjoying a mud bath and were soon joined by another. They may stay in this pond for 5-6 hours but not necessarily enjoying each others’ company. Seeing so many of these incredible creatures, we asked about the number of tortoises on the ranch. “It could be 50 one day and 150 the next. They are constantly moving although the females will travel the greatest distance to lay eggs. She has to travel 10 miles to the shore to lay her eggs. The trip could take several weeks.”

Back to the van and finally heading to our hotel, located in the small city of Puerto Ayora. As we drove down Charles Darwin Ave, Fredrico pointed out favorable restaurants and souvenir shops. We stopped at a water taxi station and saw a sea lion taking a nap on one of the benches. Will this ever stop being amazing?! Onto the water taxi and over to the other side of the marina where we found our hotel. Luxury! 

The Angermeyer Waterfront Inn consists of several 2 and 3 story buildings, plus a boat serving as a “room”, and a gourmet restaurant. The rooms had their own names. We were guided to the “Boobie”, a sizable single room with a king size bed, a large bathroom and lovely balcony. Having consumed a very late lunch, we informed the proprietor that we would not be having any dinner, deciding to call it an early night, falling asleep before our heads hit the pillow. It was a very long but exceptionally wonderful day!

Monday, November 28, 2022:

We regained consciousness and prepared ourselves for our first full day in the Galápagos. We took a water taxi from the Angermeyer Waterfront Inn to the main square in Puerto Ayora. There we met our new guide, Zambo, who explained he has a very long name (Juan Carlos Zamborino) and prefers the nickname his friends gave him in school. He is also a “native”, born on San Cristobal Island and moved to Santa Cruz Island as a child. Zambo led us to the bus where we joined another small group on today’s adventure.

Heading back to the ferry landing across from Baltra Island, we took a panga (skiff) to the “Windrose”, a beautiful yacht that was to be our lodging and transportation for the day. Once introductions and a safety review were completed, the captain took the Windrose out through the narrow Canal de Itabaca heading to our first destination: Bartolomé Island. Zambo encouraged us to move about the yacht and head to the open bow or up to top deck under sun protection in order for a better view of see sea lions, turtles, manta rays and possibly a humped back whale although unlikely as most have migrated.

We went straight to the bow in order to catch a view of Daphne Island. Mary Margaret had read Jonathan Weiner’s, “The Beak of the Finch”, documenting Peter and Rosemary Grant’s 20-year study of Darwin’s Finches on Daphne Major. She has been fairly obsessed with the book and the desire to see the places and finches described. Daphne Major and Minor are clearly seen from the airport, however it was much more impressive to see Daphne Major up close. Cruising along, we were treated to views of sea turtles, the tipped wings of manta rays, a few sea lions and dozens of birds. 

Passing close to Daphne, it was impossible to imagine being able to set foot on the island with its shear, rocky cliffs. Trails created by the scientists were still visible as white lines on the island.

Leaving Daphne behind for the moment, we cruised to Bartolomé Island where the captain set the anchor in Sullivan Bay. We took a short panga ride to the landing area on the rocky shore and began our “geology adventure”. Bartolomé Island is actually an extinct volcano, uninhabited and protected. As soon as we began our hike on the boardwalk, we stopped a few feet from the landing to look at schools of fish, mantas, sea lions playing on the shore, blue-footed boobies diving for there breakfast and small brightly colored crabs climbing on the rocks. Such an unbelievable amount of activity!

The boardwalk is the only area we were allowed to walk on and it led up up 350 steps to the very top of the island for fantastic views on this very clear day. Unfortunately, one of our team found she couldn’t complete the walk after the first stopping point, however Zambo took the opportunity to unfold a map and give us a mini-lecture on the formation of the Galápagos Islands over 3.5 million years ago due to tectonic plate movement causing volcanic activity. As an example, the Nazca Plate continues to move at a rate of 1-3cm per year. The smaller islands are older and located in the eastern area of the archipelago. The larger islands, like Bartolomé , are younger and in the western area.

Upwards we trudged, pausing to catch our breath and learn more about the barren-looking island around us. The Malt Plant, locally known as the Tequilia plant, was everywhere. It is a small, white bush-like plant that survives due to being able to live on inorganic soil, require little moisture and reflect the sunlight with its white color.

There was an occasional cactus and iguana but overall, it was a barren island. The color palette of the island is rusty red, ochre and black due to the minerals from the past volcanic activity. There are hills of boulders and loose rock, appearing as if they were randomly dumped in that very location.

The popularity of this island is the distinctive Pinnacle Rock, thrusting upwards like a gigantic fountain suddenly turned to stone. It is massive and can be seen for miles. We eventually reached the top of the island, walking through loose, black volcanic soil, to the orangey-white marker serving as a beacon of sorts. This gave us a panoramic view of the islands surrounding us, high above the Pinnacle Rock. Zambo was thrilled to see Marchena Island due to the clear conditions. Santa Cruz, Santiago and Isabella Islands were clearly seen, bobbing around in the bright blue water.

We walked down to the landing and boarded the panga. Due to the dinghy size, half of our group went back to the Windrose while the other half took a ride around the island. We were in the second group and caught our first view of a Galápagos penguin. His name is “Whiskey” so he was Whiskey on the rocks! Zambo says that almost all the penguins are known and named. Blue-footed boobies were seen at a distance, schools of fish swimming under us and around the corner more penguins! 

Back to the ship to unwind while the crew prepared lunch for us, waiting for the first group to tour Pinnacle Rock in the panga.

After lunch our captain took us to our next adventure: snorkeling near Sombrero Chino, also known as the Chinese Hat. The island is uninhabited by humans and offered a protected anchorage for the Windrose while we snorkeled. The real adventure is underneath the water. The crew provided short wetsuits, fins and masks so we were ready to be entertained. It was a gorgeous day with loads of sun and pristine water. There were so many fish! Different colors, sizes and shapes, swimming alone or in schools. We were entertained by the Galápagos Penguins, diving into the water near us and swimming circles around our group! 

There is no coral in this volcanic archipelago, at least none that we had heard about, however the volcanic reef held enough hiding places and food that it didn’t matter at all. The Humboldt Current provides abundant nutrients for the Galápagos sea life. We encountered a pair of sleeping sharks but did not stay in the area to see if they would wake up!

The starfish were too numerous to count. Fortunately, Zambo had an underwater camera that took both still photos and videos. He was able to share these with our group once we were back in Santa Cruz.

We swam back to the panga then boarded the Windrose after about 45 minutes of snorkeling as the current had changed and was getting much stronger. Once on board, the captain hosed us all down, washing off the salt water and making us feel clean. We left this beautiful island area and headed an hour and a half back to Santa Cruz, relaxing on the bow.

Suddenly, a Red-footed Boobie flew directly over the deck and landed on the bow railing! The captain was stunned as this species of Boobie is typically found in the northern islands and not here in the center. The Boobie preened his feathers and gave us the stink eye but didn’t leave until we were nearly in the marina. It was amazing!

Our van was waiting for us at the dock and off we went, taking the 45-minute drive to Puerto Ayora, grabbing a water taxi and heading to the hotel, not quite as exhausted as the first night. Dinner was at 7:30 then off to bed, planning on another early start and adventure!

Tuesday, November 29, 2022:

Rinse and repeat!

Breakfast, water taxi, van, panga and back on the Windrose yacht for another great day. This day did not require as much travel time as yesterday. It involves a hike and an afternoon snorkel with the same crew and our same guide, Zambo, with fewer guests joining us. Our first stop is Plazas Island, on the north side of Santa Cruz and a 45 minute cruise away.

Plazas Island is known for it’s sea lion rookery, bird life and land iguanas. The island is located just off Santa Cruz so our travel time was just over an hour.

This was a more strenuous hike than yesterday in respect to the type of ground we walked over. Yesterday was a board walk and steep; today is uneven ground, boulders with a gradual climb. South Plazas is less than 1 square mile but has 3 microclimates. A sea lion was briefly blocking our path from the panga, as it sprawled in the morning sun. It quickly left, realizing we meant business!

We all gathered at an area with towering cactus plants and discussed the physical demands of the hike. It would be over an hour and a giant loop, taking us to the top of cliffs then back down to the sea lion rookery. Two members of our HAL group of 5 elected to get back on the panga and take a cruise around the island and over to North Plazas before returning to the Windrose. Prior to their departure, Zambo spent time talking about the iguana as there were so many there in front of us! A few were tussling over a palm leaf, one was eating a cactus bud that had fallen off, another huge iguana decided to join in and tried to take over the feast. It was fascinating watching all this activity!

We started a slow climb up a well-marked trail with cactus and Sesuvium on either side. Sesuvium or Galápagos Carpet, is a beautiful red plant that will change green during the wet season. It is a type of succulent and also a food source. It is approaching mating season so the iguanas are shedding their skin in order to look more attractive (getting a new suit!). There were plenty of variations in the iguanas in terms of size, maturity and color.

Reaching the top of the island, the path leveled off but the unevenness did not. We watched swallow tail gulls, frigate birds, and shearwaters flying very close to us as we approached the edge of the cliff.

Walking along to the eastern tip, we passed Project Green Galapagos where the Park Service is attempting to restore plants that were destroyed by goats that had been brought into the Galápagos Islands years ago. The goats have been contained on farms and the feral goats have been eliminated. It will be interesting to see the outcome of this project.

Zambo pointed out a couple of sea iguanas that had climbed the steep, rocky cliffs to sun themselves on top. There was a sea lion resting in the same area as well, most likely hiking up to the sunny spot from a more gradual rise from the water. The crabs are everywhere, clinging in the most precarious fashion to the sides of the cliffs! 

Zambo picked up a carapace previously shed by a juvenile crab. The crabs are able to obtain the calcium needed to create a new shell by eating the remains of the sea lions’ digestion. On that note we were told to look at the smooth white rocks at our feet. This is the result centuries of sea lions defecating, urinating and rolling around in the area, covering the volcanic rocks with this material and packing it down. Certainly a different way to look at our walking path!

Our small group headed down towards the sea lion heard, their grunting, growling calls heard as soon as we approached the island by sea. We witnessed two large females fighting and small, weeks old sea lions pups hiding behind their mothers. Just off the path were a couple of sea lions, resting, one of which was a pregnant female, perhaps days away from giving birth.

Sea lion pups were gathered together, playing and rolling around. Zambo told us the mother typically leaves her pup to search for food, sometimes taking a day or two to return. The pups can loose lots of weight but regain it once mom is back and can nurse.

We made our way back to the landing, passing by a lone egg under a cactus, abandoned by a swallow tail gull. Both parents are involved in caring for the egg, each taking turns while the other searches for food. If one doesn’t return in a certain amount of time, the other will take off. There is just so much to learn about each species on this tiny island!

A bull sea lion sat just off the path to the landing steps, and rose as we passed, seeming to let us know just who is boss on this island! We left South Plazas Island by panga, joined our group on the Windrose and had a delicious lunch before heading to the snorkeling site.

The skies did not clear as they had yesterday and the air temp was cooler as well. We discussed the possibility of remaining on the yacht instead of going in the water. Our experience yesterday was so spectacular, Mary Margaret didn’t want to have a subpar experience. The area in Canal de Itabaca, between Baltra Island and Santa Cruz, is known to have larger fish (sharks), manta rays and sea lions. The family group that joined our excursion decided to go in but we remained on board and watched a documentary on the Whale Shark. A research study is being conducted on the Whale Shark off Darwin Island and was absolutely fascinating! Soon our snorkeling guests were back aboard the yacht. They were disappointed in the lack of fish although the son had caught a glimpse of a sea lion.

The crew provided our celebratory beverage as a final send off, giving us a chance to thank them for their wonderful care and great attitudes. Back we cruised to the marina, a short 10 minutes away. 

We returned to Puerto Ayora and did some retail therapy as it was our last opportunity before leaving this beautiful place tomorrow. It has gone by so quickly and was just so outstanding!

November 30, 2022, Wednesday: Charles Darwin Research Institute

We are packed and ready to leave the Angermeyer Waterfront Inn and explore our last Galápagos Island locale: The Charles Darwin Research Station. Fredrico met us at the Angermeyer Waterfront Inn, guiding us, along with our luggage, into the water taxi and over to the town landing. The pier was bustling with trucks and people, well into their workday. We jumped into a van, now packed with our luggage, and rode 10 minutes to the research center.

The Charles Darwin Research Institute (CDRI) is dedicated to research and conservation of the unique species of the Galápagos Islands. Today Fredrico is taking us around the tortoise breeding center and nursery to observe the work being done to increase the population in the islands where they remain endangered. The islands of Santiago, Espanola, Floreana and the northern part of Santa Cruz are involved in this program and are beneficiaries of increasing numbers of these giant creatures. 

We learned that during the age of piracy and whaling, sailors would take the tortoises from the islands and keep them on board for a ready source of food. Tortoises do not require daily feeding and can exist without food or water for days, weeks and, rarely, months at a time, making them a perfect food source. Unfortunately, this activity, plus the invasion of rats, dogs and goats, severely impacted the tortoise population, causing extinction of some species on different islands.

Fredrico led us through pathways leading to the giant tortoise area. We passed the shark research center and the museum before reaching the quarantine area and the “nursery”, all out in the open in a semi-controlled environment.

When large male tortoises have been injured, they are brought to the CDRI for recovery but need to be kept in quarantine for several weeks. The young hatchlings are raised in segregated enclosures as each island has a separate species of tortoises despite being in the same family.

We watched the little hatchlings creeping around, active as they’re aware that today is feeding day; the feeding routine occurs 3x/week. Each of their enclosures are labeled with the name of the island and the date the youngsters were placed there. As an example, the Floreana hatchlings will not develop their “saddleback” until after the age of 7 months, therefore must be kept separate from the other unique tortoises. The tortoises are kept in the Institute until they are 5 years old. This is when there carapace is tough enough to protect them from becoming someone’s lunch!

There was an informative exhibit in an open air pavilion describing the stages of the tortoise growth and development. Protecting all stages of development is an all encompassing task but rewarding when the hatchlings are old enough to be released on their specific island.

We ventured on to the breeding area for the Floreana Saddleback Tortoises. The males and females in the enclosure were over 100 years old yet able to reproduce. While there, Fredrico identified an area where the most famous inhabitant spent his remaining years: Lonesome George.

One of the highlights of our visit to the Institute was the building housing the taxidermy remains of “Lonesome George”. This famous 125+ year old tortoise was the last of his kind, discovered in the 1970’s on Pinta Island by researchers studying plants. Despite all efforts  to help him reproduce, it was all to no avail. He died at the CDRI on 6/24/2012. His DNA has been preserved for a possible future reincarnation of sorts. He was massive!

We strolled through the Charles Darwin Foundation building, admiring the massive whale skeleton and reading more about the research conducted in the Galápagos Islands.

Fredrico led us back to the van and onward to the airport on Baltra Island. We waited in the VIP lounge for our flight, shooing the Darwin Finches away before boarding our flight to Guayaquil, Ecuador, where we would wait to board another flight to Lima, Peru, where the Oosterdam was located, snug in the Port of Callao.

Our flight to Lima (Premium Class once again) was uneventful, however arriving at the Port of Callao with our guide was problematic. Apparently none of the 5 names of our tour group had been entered on the ship’s list given to the Port Callao Authority. Exhausted, we waited an hour for clearance, finally arriving at the gangway at 12:40am on December 1! The shore excursion head greeted us and was profusely apologetic. We were not going allow this snafu to be the defining event of what we experienced as one of our most fantastic adventures. It did help that we had a bottle of wine gifted to us the next day to “soothe” our injured egos!

Kudos to Holland America’s Exploration Team. Their coordination of our time away from the Oosterdam was phenomenal. We were never left alone wondering where to catch a flight or land transportation. All our meals and layover locations were included so our only expenses were guide tips and souvenirs. The association with Akorn Destination Management was truly a great partnership. Akorn’s Ecuador office did an outstanding job!

On to our next port: General San Maritín, Peru to explore the Ica Valley.

November 24, 2022: Thanksgiving Day Through the Panama Canal

The Oosterdam slowly sailed from the Caribbean Sea and under the Atlantic Bridge. Mary Margaret made her way to the bow at 5am to fully experience the beginning of our sail through the Panama Canal. Ships were lined up on the starboard side, navigation lights on, awaiting their turn through the locks. The pre-dawn sky allowed a view of the constellations while we chugged along, waiting for arrival at our first destination. It took the Oosterdam an hour to reach the bridge and head to the Gatún Locks, the “original” locks of the Canal. Parallel to these locks are the Agua Clara Locks, created by the Panama Canal expansion in 2016, which doubled the canal’s capacity. While waiting for the Oosterdam to make its way to the first set of locks, the crew distributed Panama Rolls and coffee. Delicious!

Once in the Gatún Locks, the Oosterdam was raised 85 feet to the level of Gatún Lake. This is a man made lake, formed in 1912 by damming the Chagres River. We rose through the last of the 3 locks and sailed onto Gatún Lake along with container ships and other cruise ships.

The “islands” in the lake are actually the tops of hills. The largest of these islands is Barro Colorado Island, with a distinct red color. The Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute is located here as the entire island is a nature reserve.

We sailed along, admiring the tropical landscape and hoping for a glimpse of wild life. During the transit, the Oosterdam provided ongoing narration on Panama Canal highlights. The ship’s speed was about 6 knots for the entire transit which made viewing and photography ideal. We finally reached the 8-mile long Culebra Cut, located at the Continental Divide.

During the canal’s creation, this narrow, short waterway was the most treacherous section to excavate due to the unstable clay-like soil. It is also where most of the digging occurred. The engineers had to contend with multiple landslides causing injuries, deaths and delays. We noted several areas along the shore where there is evidence of landslides, terraced shorelines and abandoned equipment. It is estimated that this section of the Panama Canal cost $10,000,000 per mile! 

Cruising through the Culebra Cut, we approached the Centennial Bridge, noting what we thought was a dredging operation on our side of the ship. The Canal Pilot stated it was actually a repair operation due to a subterranean landslide. Yikes! There is continuous maintenance to the Panama Canal making the $328,000 (plus another $50,000) transit fee seem fairly reasonable.

The Captain gave us another thrill by issuing a very long, loud blast of the ships horn while sailing under the Centennial Bridge. It echoed around the Culebra Cut, possibly giving the vehicles on the bridge heart failure! 

Through the bridge and toward the Pedro Miguel Locks that will lower the Oosterdam 30.5 feet on our way to the Pacific. This is the first of 3 locks separated from the 2 Miraflores Locks by Miraflores Lake, about a distance of a half mile. The reason for this is that a tectonic fault lies beneath the lake, necessitating the lock separation.

Onward through the Pedro Miguel Locks and the Miraflores Lake, the Oosterdam headed to the Miraflores Locks that dropped us down another 54 feet, reaching sea level on the Pacific side. The weather seemed to be closing in on us while waiting to go though the locks. Fortunately we remained dry, leaving the Panama Canal after cruising under the Bridge of the Americas, a key section of the Pan-American highway. We left the drama of the canal transit and readied ourselves for an American Thanksgiving dinner in the Main Dining Room. The entire transit, from Cristóbal to Fuerte Amador (Panama City) took a little over 13 hours.

The Oosterdam speaker, running the narration the entire day, made sure to let us know that this was “a most beautiful transit” as it was sunny and calm, which is not always the case. All we know is that it was an incredible experience being able to cruise from the Atlantic’s Caribbean Sea to the Pacific’s Gulf of Panama on one of the greatest engineering feats in history!

November 25, 2022, Friday: Fuerte Amador, Panama

The cruise terminal at Fuerte Amador, Panama City’s port, is under construction and will not be open until late 2023. Our focus on this leg of the cruise is our upcoming trip to the Galápagos Islands so our shore excursions until 11/27 are mostly short but covering the highlights of each area.

We joined a tour that bussed us around Panama City, giving us a historic perspective of both pre-European migration and current events affecting the area. Alex, our guide, was a wealth of information regarding historic and current issues affecting Panama. He described the 3 periods of the growth of Panama. From 1502 through 1821 the Spanish were in control of this region. Next came the oversight of Columbia viewing Panama as belonging to them from 1822 until 1903 when the Panama Canal’s creation began.

We drove past a small stone bridge built in the late 16th century that, at the time, led from the port into the small colonial development. It was an important structure and has been a protected piece of history. 

Fast forward to the present. As commerce flourished, Panama City grew but, as often happens,  greed and scandal ensued. Alex referenced the Netflix series, “Panama Papers” that uncovered corruption in the finance industry. Many of the skyscrapers are owned by banks but fewer than 10 major finance institutions remain. Prior to the US handing over the Panama Canal to Panama, the country was only receiving $5 million per year. In 2000, the dramatic increase of money flowing into Panama from Canal revenues increased to $5 million per day! We noticed the huge, modern buildings in the city and were told they had been owned by the banks but are now are barely occupied after the finance scandal. 

There is a large “duty free” shopping area in downtown Panama City that many of the passengers felt the need to explore. Fortunately for Tom, our bus bypassed this and headed back towards the marina, stopping at Frank Gehry’s amazing Biomass Museum.

The building has a colorful origami appearance from the outside and once inside, it was as if you entered a forest. The ceiling structure seemed as if it was a collection of tree canopies in the rain forest. We signed on to the wi-fi, located the QR code and proceeded to take a self-guided tour of this fascinating museum. The focus of the museum is to give the visitor a view of the biodiversity of the region as well as the delicate balance between man and nature. A large room with a glass floor and several huge screens gave a 6-minute visual presentation of the diversity of the region, one of the most diverse in the world. Fish swam under our feet and birds flew overhead. We were “drenched” by rain (on film!). Loud but visually fantastic!

We were led into an area that explained the reason for the diversity through the formation of the Isthmus of Panama or the “land bridge” created a few million years ago, allowing for migration of species between North and South America. In 2016 while creating a new section of the Panama Canal, remains of a giant sloth were found. 

This museum is very popular with school children who are now at the end of their school year (March through December 1). Untangling ourselves from eager school groups, we walked into the aquatic exhibits, showcasing the differences in the Caribbean Ocean and the Pacific Ocean. 

The Biomass Museum was filled with exhibits and information that would require more than the hour we were given to explore. It was soon time to board the bus and head back to the port of Fuerte Amador to relax before dinner.

We had one last item on our wish list that would be fulfilled on this cruise: stargazing under the darkened skies in the Pacific Ocean. We were treated to an astronomy lecture on the Sky Deck of the Oosterdam after 8pm. Jim McParland, guest speaker throughout our cruise, used his laser pointer to identify planets and constellations. Before the lecture, Mary Margaret pointed out Cassiopeia, remembering her childhood stargazing experience with her big brother, sitting on the roof and using his telescope on lazy summer nights. We spent about a half hour listening and learning more about the night sky. Pleiades, Orion, The Eagle and Swan, Gemini and Taurus. It may have not been the perfect night sky but close enough for being on a cruise ship in the Pacific Ocean.

Our evening of festive dining and star gazing was winding down. It was time to prepare ourselves for our next great adventure: exploring the Galápagos Islands! The Oosterdam was already heading to Manta, Peru, a sea day away, where we would leave the ship in the early morning hours and take a van to Guayaquil, Peru for our flight to Balta Island, Galápagos.

Sunday, November 27, 2022:

It is finally here! We met our 3 fellow travelers for breakfast in the ship’s Main Dining Room at 4:40am and had our own personal chef. Breakfast done, passports returned to us and off the ship we walked, dragging our small suitcase and our 1 personal item to meet our guide, Santiago. He is only the guide that will be present during our transport from Manta, Ecuador, to Guayaquil, a 4-hour drive. The José Joaquin de Olmedo Airport is the only airport, aside from Quinto, to fly to the Galápagos Islands. We had to have our shoes cleaned by our room steward prior to leaving as there is a fine if you enter the islands with “dirty shoes”, potentially carrying some random plant or insect not native to the islands.

As we headed away from Manta, we noticed enormous statues in each roundabout we passed. These represented various industries or historic figures of the city.

Our guide was delightful, giving us an opportunity for “quiet time” until we stopped at a halfway point for coffee and empanadas. Back on the 20-seat bus, Santiago gave us an overview of Ecuador including government, exports, climate and every day life. Ecuador sits on the Equator and has Quito as its capital. Although Quito may be the administrative/political capital, Guayaquil is the financial capital of Ecuador. There are 4 regions: the Highlands that include the Andes Mountains, the Coast, the Amazon and the Galápagos Islands. Exports include oil, shrimp, coffee, bananas and flowers, especially roses. There is a special nut called the Tagua, typically made into decorative objects due to its tusk-like hardness. Mary Margaret managed to find earrings made out of Tagua on the ship and took advantage of a sale!

The year is divided into the Dry Season and the Wet Season. Fortunately for us, the Wet Season will not begin until mid-December and end in March. Schools are on their “summer vacations” from the beginning of December until March. We had to continually remind ourselves we are south of the equator!

The currency has been tied to the US dollar since 2002 and US dollars are used as well as Ecuadorian coins. The average monthly salary is $400 but the monthly cost of living is $800. There is “free” health care but if you need an elective surgery, you must wait for a few months unless “you know someone in the hospital and can give them some money to take you sooner”. Cars are outrageously expensive and heavily taxed. The country has a 12% sales tax on most goods. Fortunately there is a vibrant agricultural industry, at least for fruits and vegetables. These are inexpensive as Santiago demonstrated. He stopped by a stand selling rice and was able to purchase a10kg bag of rice for $10. Further along our route, he stopped and purchased a bag of ciruelo, a small red and green fruit that was both sweet and tart, all for $2. Delish!

We finally reached the José Joaquin de Olmedo Airport where Santiago gave Mary Margaret all the boarding passes via WhatsApp as she had the app already installed on her iPhone. This did cause a bit of anxiety in one member of our group as “it’s not paper” and she didn’t want to rely on anyone but herself. After an hour’s wait in a private lounge, we boarded the Latam Airline flight to Baltra Island, a desert island in the Galápagos Archipelago perfect for an airport. We flew “premium economy” which felt like first class in that we had wider seats in the front of the plane and fancier snacks. We’re finally in the Galápagos!

November 19, 2022

We boarded the Oosterdam on Saturday, an exercise we never want to repeat as it was perhaps the worst embarkation we’ve ever experienced (not sure if it was Port of Miami, HAL or both!). We had received notification of a change in port location for our embarkation a couple months before the cruise, however flight and hotel reservations had been made for Ft. Lauderdale. HAL assured us that a shuttle bus would be available to take us to the Port of Miami on embarkation day. In addition to the change in port, we had to take a COVID-19 test 72 hours prior to embarkation and use the VeriFLY app to load our information to speed the embarkation process. In theory, it looked efficient. COVID-19 PCR negative and VeriFLY downloaded—we are ready!

The shuttle bus taking us to the Ft. Lauderdale airport was late but got us to the airport where we waited (again) for the bus taking us and many other passengers to the Port of Miami. Our embarkation time was scheduled for 1:20, however the bus arrived shortly after and dropped us off in front of an opening boldly stating “Priority Passengers”. The line at the Priority gate was longer than the regular boarding line. As new 4-star Mariners, we had been looking forward to a quick check in and lunch in the dining room. This was not to be! We stood in line from the time we arrived on the pier at 1:20 to the time we reached our stateroom at 3:15. We nearly missed the 4 & 5 star “meet and greet” as the invitation wasn’t in our stateroom inbox upon arrival (thankfully our keys were there). Thinking we would grab a cocktail on the Sea View deck, and waiting (and waiting) for a server, Tom returned to our stateroom for his sunglasses and found the invitation. We made it to the Crow’s Nest 10 minutes before the event ended, finally having a much needed glass of Prosecco and a Cosmopolitan. 

The nightmare didn’t end there. Thinking we would wait out the crowd and having time to catch the first show, we went to the dining room at 6pm and found a long line that wasn’t moving. Pivoting away from this debacle, we headed to the Canaletto, made a dinner reservation for 7pm and returned to the Sea View Deck in time for a sail away cocktail. The Port of Miami is absolutely gorgeous, giving us the perfect send off and elevating our mood.

We had hoped the following day would be a much more organized but experienced a 1.25 hr wait for breakfast. We later learned that more than half of the crew had turned over when the Oosterdam reached Miami. It apparently took a while for everyone to be trained and oriented to their jobs. All can be forgiven!

November 22, 2022: Oranjestad, Aruba

We decided to go with the flow and not let the previous day’s events color our cruise experience. Once on board, we relaxed and readied ourselves to start our adventure. Of course, Mary Margaret immediately found a Mahjong group that meets daily. After 2 days at sea we arrived early morning in Oranjestad, Aruba and, after customs clearance, joined a walking tour. Wendle, our guide, speaks 7 languages and grew up in Oranjestad but spent most of his adult life in Europe. He was very knowledgeable and added so much to the tour. 

We had attended a destination wedding here in February 2017 and had explored most of the 6-mile wide island during that week. We decided to learn more about the history, culture and food of Aruba in the best possible place: Oranjestad. We met our group at the pier and began our walk to Palace Square to talk about the architecture (mainly Spanish but all buildings are replicas) then stopped to have an island “staple”: pastechi. It is a delicious hand held pastry-like goody filled with Gouda cheese. Yum! We learned about the Spanish influence as well as the history of the Dutch on this island, still a protectorate although Aruba gained independence from the Lesser Antilles in 1986. It was interesting to note that Curaçao held sway over Aruba until independence.

Onward to view more historic areas. We stopped in front of the National Archeological Museum consisting of a collection of homes. These had a story as well, involving the Ecury family consisting of the parents and 10 children. One of the children, Boy Ecury, returned to Holland during WWII and became the master planner of the Dutch Resistance. Unfortunately, he was later killed by Nazis but will always be a war hero in the hearts of the Dutch.

We had noticed statues of blue horses in various places along our tour. These are a result of a cultural/historic project, Paardenbaai Aruba, to highlight important events around Horses Bay. The bay received its name from its natural harbor’s ability to safely transport horses from Spanish ships to the market. The blue color is the Delft Blue of Holland.

We crossed the busy L.G. Smith Boulevard to walk along a lush greenway and into the Queen Wilhelmina Park. Along the way, we stopped in front of a statue of Anne Frank, wistfully looking upward, with an inscription, “How wonderful it is that nobody need wait a single moment to improve the world.” No one should need a reminder of who she was!

The Queen Wilhelmina statue was quite impressive as was her rule. We recrossed L.G.Smith and over to the Parliament Building, standing in the shade of a large tree and learning more about Aruba’s government and subsequent development.

We walked along, past the ruins of Fort Zoutman, the oldest structure in Aruba, built as protection from pirates. Only a few walls remain, however there is discussion of reconstruction. Further down the street was the Willem III Tower, built as a light house but now houses artifacts, located next to the historical museum. Before ending our “official” tour, Wendle quickly took us down a side street to show us a unique monument honoring the 3 musicians who created the Aruban national anthem. Back on the Main Street and over tram tracks, heading to a large green house with an interesting history.

This former home and dentists office was sold to the Aruban Government where it currently houses City Hall. It has become a popular place for civic weddings.

Wendle was quite talkative but gave us so much information! We were rewarded with a stop at a very small market to sample the local beer, Balash, a cool and refreshing drink on this very warm day!  Before returning to the ship, we stopped at a seafood restaurant to dine on fresh fish tacos and use the Wi-Fi. Back to the Oosterdam with another sea day ahead of us before reaching the Panama Canal.

November 18, 2022: Wilmington, NC to Fort Lauderdale, FL

There are a few continents left to explore and more adventures to be had. We’ve decided to join a Holland America (HAL) cruise to South America, heading through the Panama Canal after making a brief stop in Aruba. Exploring the west coast of South America will find us leaving the ship for a few days, after reaching Ecuador, to fly to the Galápagos Islands, a Darwinian experience! Rejoining the ship, we’ll explore Peru and Chili, sail through Glacier Alley in Ushuaia, Argentina, through the Straight of Magellan and around Cape Horn. Heading up the east coast, we’ll check out a King Penguin rookery in the Falkland Islands, tour Montevideo, Uruguay, and end in Buenos Aires after a spectacular nature show at Iguazu Falls. We’ll leave the Oosterdam after our Buenos Aires arrival and spend a couple days on our own exploring this fascinating city. Here we go!

Monday Evening, March 21, 2022

Our farewell event started at the Four Season’s Zest Rooftop Bar pavilion with drinks, appetizers and shared laughs. The weather was delightfully warm even as the day approached sunset.

We strolled back over to the elevator to descend a couple floors to the main dining area where we indulged in our last group meal. It was superb: Kefta tajine, Berber vegetable tajine, sea bass and saffron risotto, ending with a hazelnut praline tart. The food and surroundings were sumptuous!

Most of our fellow travelers had to leave in the early morning hours in order to fly from Casablanca. We chose to stay an extra day, leaving the Four Seasons at noon after receiving the results of our PCR test (negative) and arriving in the Atlas Sky Airport Hotel, Casablanca mid-afternoon.

The travel time from Marrakesh to Casablanca was nearly 3 hours. Transportation was provided by Tauck, making our last day stress free. We shared our ride with Alan and Jane Baron; he a retired physician and she a professional photographer. Both led interesting lives and shared both ups and downs with us, as did we. During a rest stop we witnessed an outdoor bake shop that provided freshly baked Khobz and tajine to the attached restaurant. The baker and kitchen staff thought we had lost our minds as we exclaimed, ”Ooo” and ”Ahhh” while snapping photographs. They’re probably still talking about the ”crazy Americans”!

Our driver dropped us off at a modest airport hotel that immediately brought us down to Earth from our Four Seasons dream. No restaurants nearby and the hotel restaurant would open for dinner at 9pm. Room service, however, was available 24 hours a day, a reasonable solution that satisfied our hunger and energy level.

We flew out of Casablanca the morning of March 23, holding our experiences close and discussing a possible return next year. It was truly a wonderful adventure!

(Random photos of our group, artistic rendition of written Berber language, etc.):

Monday, March 21, 2021

We cannot believe it is our last day. It was such an amazing tour both in a group sense and the experiences we had. It is so difficult to believe we’ll be heading our separate ways tomorrow morning. 

It was a 3 hour drive from Marrakesh to the coast with a couple stops on the way. Aside from the “logistical” stop, we were able to tour an Argan Oil production center owned and run by women. 

On the way, Yassim told us that the triangle formed by the cities of Essaouira, Agadir and Taroudant was one of the only places in the world where Argan trees are grown. Goats are beneficial to the trees as they prune the trees during the hot months during mid-May through July when grass is scarce. They actually climb the trees in order to reach the branches and the tree nuts.

The women in the co-op were friendly and welcoming. We watched the nuts being processed from shell to Amlou, the “Moroccan Nutella”, and the famous oil. A table was laid out with bread to dip in bowls of honey, Argan Oil and Amlou.

We had our first menthol mint tea—can’t say it’s a favorite as it was nearly impossible to raise the glass to our lips without inhaling a lung full of Hall’s cough drops! Shopping over and back on the bus to drive to the gorgeous seaside port of Essaouira.

Tauck must have saved the best for last! The day was absolutely flawless: clear blue skies and bright sunshine making it perfect for photo opportunities. As we walked along the beach towards the ancient port, Yassim took this opportunity to give us an overview of the history, allowing us to learn more about this charming, walled city. 

This unique city, located on the Atlantic Ocean, has a colorful history, literally! It was founded by the Romans who settled here to harvest the murex sea snail that produced purple dye, the color and symbol of royalty. Others followed, including those from Portugal, Spain and the Netherlands. Essaouira was also known as Mogador until 1960. According to legend the Berber Regraga were the descendants of the 7 saints or apostles of Islam and had met with Mohammed. There is an annual festival where the descendants of these holy men gather to celebrate.

We walked to see the famed Flouka, the blue fishing boats tied up in the harbor. Despite the large number of boats being tied up, there was an extraordinary amount of activity as fisherman climbed over the boats and onto the pier, dodging seagulls (and tourists!). Walking away from the busy port, we entered the city through the Marine Gate, then onward, passing a fisherman repairing his nets, a healthy looking cat catching a snooze, all the while watching the waves crashing on the shore outside the massive walls.

We entered the main square with its restaurants, shops and white-walled architecture. Our next stop was the Sqala, a platform with Spain-made cannons overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. Before reaching the Sqala, we walked along a narrow walkway with the city wall to our left and buildings to our right. Colorful blue doors and windowless alleys branched away from the wall to the inner Kasbah.

We reached another gate that opened into a souk where shopping opportunities abounded! Yassim promised we could spend 15 minutes looking around only after we climbed up a ramp to get a better view of the crashing Atlantic waves and large cannons of the Sqala.

It was an amazing view and definitely an easy climb. The Sqala is a platform that is nearly 600 feet long. We were unable to walk the full length as a film crew was in the process of creating the set for the Indiana Jones movie. We will have to see it when it is released! Mary Margaret found an opportunity to make a quick purchase from the artist set up along the Sqala.

Back through the clean and friendly Medina where we spend our allotted 15 minute shopping opportunity, to the Mellah, the Jewish Quarter where we toured the Bayt Dakia, or House of Memory.

It was a small but interesting museum with a prayer room inside. Many of the exhibits held objects used in religious ceremonies as well as traditional dress and instruments.

We left the museum and headed further into the Mellah, specifically to the jewelry school. The Mellah is well known for its silversmiths as the Jews brought this skill to the Berbers.

We had a brief demonstration on jewelry making as well as an opportunity to view the various styles as students became more skillful.

The selections offered in the showroom were amazing in their variety and design. Purchases made and off to lunch at the beach. It was truly a perfect last day in Morocco.

Essaouira, the ”Windy City” is a popular location for kite surfing. We did not see any activity other than people walking on the beach, enjoying the powdery sand.

We strolled back from the beach to our bus and a 3 hour drive back to Marrakesh where we had an opportunity to clean up before our farewell dinner.

Sunday, March 20, 2022

Sunday was an exceptional day where we experienced the extremes of life in Morocco. We began our day in a horse drawn carriage, heading to the Majorelle Gardens and Yves Saint Laurent (YSL) Museum. Despite it being a bit nerve racking riding in traffic, it allowed us to appreciate Marrakesh at a much slower speed.

We passed one of the oldest gardens in Marrakesh, not far from the hotel, which has been in existence since the 12th century. Many families, especially in the summer, will flock to the garden park in the evening and may spend time there until dawn, avoiding the heat of summer nights inside their homes. It’s a lively place with food and music.  We were told there is a large pool inside the garden park, however we were not able to enter as it is only for Muslims.

Gardens Majorelle is a former estate of Jacques Majorelle, an artist, that was later rescued and renovated by YSL.

We wandered through this bamboo and cactus wonderland admiring the tall palm trees, water features and a koi pond.

A fascinating Berber museum is located in the gardens, displaying tools, jewelry, clothing and other items created by this desert tribe. The jewelry display was in a darkened room with tiny ”stars” overhead, making you feel as if you were in the desert. Sadly, no photos allowed in the museum.

Onward to the YSL museum. He was clearly influenced by the Berber culture as noted in his introduction of the Kaftan to the fashion world of the 1960s. YSL ”invented” the color Majorelle Blue and it has become a symbol of Marrakesh as a trim or door color against the reddish brown of nearly all buildings. 

Late afternoon found us traveling in a 4X4 caravan to the Agafay Desert, stopping first at a  Berber village for a tea ceremony. 

We were greeted by Chieftain Mohamed, his wife, Debian and their 4 daughters—Fatimzola, Ibittisam, Farah and little Wiam. Chieftain Mohamed’s role in the village seems to be acting as the intermediary between other villagers and the “boss”. It was a humbling experience and one that we will always cherish. It was truly the real Morocco. The family may not have had much but the warmth they had for us was heartfelt.

We sat in the open courtyard, watching the traditional tea ceremony then indulging in Khobz (homemade bread) Beghrir (spongy pancakes), apricot preserves and honey. Delicious! 

It is customary to bring gifts and receive gifts. Gina Pillsbury brought gifts for the girls that created lots of excitement. She also provided gifts the girls could distribute to us. A small box with a Hamsa necklace. Hamsa is the hand of Fatima, the daughter of Mohammed the Prophet. The number 5 is significant, representing the the 5 pillars of Islam. The eye in the center of the Hamsa is to protect the wearer from the evil eye.

Our second stop was a short ride to a fantasy land: the Inara Desert Camp. Here, one can go camping in a luxurious tent (“glamping”), ride a camel, get a henna tattoo, settle in with a hookah pipe and pretend you are Lawrence of Arabia. We were greeted by Gnawan musicians who managed to play throughout the evening as night fell. 

The word, “Inara” in Arabic means ”light” and we would later discover it would live up to its name. Before our Berber style dinner in a jaima (tent), we were given the opportunity to dress like a Berber in a Burnoose (cape) and headscarf., provided by Tauck, ours to keep. Dressed and ready, we headed to our next form of transportation: a camel ride!

After our camel ride, we were given the opportunity to enjoy adult beverages and snacks, giving us time to decide if a henna tattoo or smoking a hookah pipe would be in order. Henna—yes! Hookah—no! We enjoyed what little daylight was left before dinner, wandering around the exotic camp and noting the difference in surroundings between Inara Desert Camp and the Berber Village: one is sheer fantasy and the other is real Moroccan life.

We were treated to a fire thrower demonstrating his talents with several implements but the most extraordinary experience came with the finale; outstanding! 

We managed to find our way back to the 4x4s as the path was illuminated by randomly placed light sculptures. Beautiful!

A few random photos of our time in the Agafay Desert:

Berber Village:

Inara Desert Camp adventure:

Saturday, March 19, 2022

Saturday found us exploring Marrakesh’s Medina, beginning with a stop near the Koutoubia Mosque, a 12th century mosque and the symbol of Marrakesh. It is classically Almohad architecture is reflected in other mosques around the country that were built during the same dynasty.

Water bearers greeted us, hold overs from an earlier era where they carried water around the Medina to help vendors and residents keep hydrated. They walked around, jiggling the brass cups attached to their clothing and calling out to thirsty residents. Other vendors noticed our group and brought their wares for our inspection and purchase.

The Medina is bright, wide and clean and also allows motor vehicles, mostly motor bikes. We took a quick swirl thorough a produce souk, more like a neighborhood market as it was small and not touristy.

Before lunch, we toured the Bahia Palace, built by Si Moussa, the Grand Vizer to the Sultan in 1860-66 and named in honor of one of his wives. The wood work and marble throughout the palace was remarkable. Intricate designs, inlaid wood and marble; even the ceilings were stunningly decorated. This opulent collection of courtyards, hallways and rooms was intended to be the greatest palace in Morocco. It was difficult to capture the size and style of its exterior as the Palace is surrounded by gardens. Once we gained entrance, we were led through astounding architecture reflecting Islamic style.

The massive courtyard held rooms for his concubines.

Some of the rooms were off limits as they were filming another Indiana Jones movie. There were definitely people dressed in period costumes making it feel as if we time traveled. 

Back on the bus we headed into the Medina to attend a lecture at IRCOS on “healing” lotions, spices and other natural ingredients (and to purchase the magic), learning more about the scents and pharmacology of the natural world. Argan Oil is a unique product of Morocco as there is a small area where the Argan trees grow, producing nuts which are then processed into oil. Mary Margaret decided to purchase saffron after learning about a counterfeit saffron that uses red-dyed cornsilk and may be sold by unscrupulous vendors.

We walked from the herbalist to “My Kechmara” restaurant for another delicious lunch and where Tom got a standing ovation for pouring his mint tea in the Moroccan style. Go Tom! The real fun came after lunch when we headed to Djemaa El Fna Square, a large square in the center of the Medina, filled with a variety of vendors. Prior to our arrival, we walked to a Kaftan/embroidery shop where we were  given a presentation on Morocco’s influence on fashion. The Kaftan is similar to a robe or tunic and can be worn for informal or formal occasions, depending on the fabric. There were a variety of colors and fabrics making the selection quite difficult. Mary Margaret settled on an embroidered table cloth, small enough to fit into her ever burgeoning suitcase. 

We finally arrived at Djemaa El Fna Square, a short walk through a few alleys. It was all you can imagine: snake charmers, women grabbing your hand to give you a henna tattoo, vendors hawking their wares. Noisy but so much fun! 

We left there unscathed, heading back to the Four Seasons to settle in and plan our evening’s adventure as there were no planned events. We decided to explore more of the area on foot, before dinner. It gave us an opportunity to walk through the modern section of Marrakesh that reflected the French Protectorate period of 1912-1956 as seen in the European-style buildings of that era. The real reason we went on our walk was to locate a shopping area as Mary Margaret required a small suitcase to allow her to check another bag once we leave Morocco. Who knew that there were so many delightful tchotchkes here?! Once we finally found the massive mall, we were directed to a luggage store near the entrance where we met a delightful cashier who was excited to practice his English. ”I am so glad you are Americans! I’m tired of the Germans and the Dutch!”.

Purchase made and back to the luxurious Four Seasons Marrakesh for a relaxing dinner and nighttime stroll around the grounds.